Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Our Hotels in Panama and Peru


Panama = Country Inn & Suites (on the Causeway, not the one in town). I booked through their website. After I booked, I received discount deals (emails) from them, so not only rebooked for 30% less, but also upgraded to a canal-view suite at a fraction of the cost. I looked into staying in town or in the jungle but decided the Causeway was best suited for us. We enjoyed being along the canal and having the causeway activities so close by. Breakfast is included. This was probably the nicest hotel of our trip.  We received a voucher for a free coffee from their shop, and it was quite good.  When booking a hotel, take into consideration the cost/ease of transportation to get there. Cost to the city is quite reasonable ($15)  but to the jungle is expensive ($100). Causeway would have been close to $45 but we hired a tour guide/driver instead. 

Lima = B&B Lima Casa Guadalupe. I booked through booking.com but you can go direct.  Their price was right - esp. for our short stay (hours).  They had good reviews, are one of the closest to the airport (10 minutes if no traffic), and the owners are very nice and helpful. We paid for their service where they hire a taxi to meet us at the airport (they do not own a car), and then to return us to the airport. One of them came with us both ways, and gave us directions for the airport. The room is plain but it met our needs. The breakfast is included and was basic and good. They also held our Panama bag for us for a week until we returned. They offered to make us a 2am breakfast but we declined; they did get up however to hail us a taxi.  And since I thanked her with Ghiradelli chocolates, she sent me home with cake!

Ollantaytambo = Apu Lodge. I booked directly through them. They responded to my emails very promptly, and set up a guide for me - which I ended up canceling (and went with Juan Jose instead). They were also willing to book our tickets to Huayna Picchu for a very fair price. They have good reviews - equal to another place in town.  I specifically reserved a room with a view of the ruins, which we got. The room actually fit 4 people. The room was not fancy but definitely met our needs. It included a decent breakfast -  the "best" of our trip. I was disappointed to not meet either owner - who I had exchanged emails with, but the workers were very friendly and helpful. Pay attention to their directions for how to use the shower so you don't end up with a cold one!

Cusco:
1) Second Home Cusco
I booked through expedia but you can book direct. The B&B only has 3 rooms. I chose it because of its location - San Blas - and its excellent reviews.  It was not cheap - you can stay in many other reasonable places in Cusco for less. But it was worth every penny. Carlos was exceptional. His replies to emails were instant.  He offered to pick us up at the airport on our arrival even though we did not stay with him that night. (I feel terrible because he actually went to the airport to get us - a miscommunication I believe was due to translation.) He was constantly asking to accommodate all of our needs. He cooked us breakfast to order (eggs).  He would book any tours or services we needed. He booked our dinner reservations and our Huayna Picchu tickets - at face value. He held our bags while we were on the Inca Trail, and then he delivered them to our next hotel in Cusco. The morning we had to leave for our trek, he got up before 5am to make us tea and say goodbye; he even packed us a picnic breakfast to go. The room was a suite and it was very nice. Make sure you have good directions. Because it is small, it is not well-known. The addresses on the street are random - not in numerical order. You cannot take a taxi directly there because the street is pedestrian only.  I hesitate to say anything negative but feel I must disclose one thing - the room is not sound proof. You can hear the other activities like you would in your own home. I didn't mind though - since it made it feel more like home.  Our Second Home :)

2) El Vierrey Boutique
I booked this through booking.com. I chose it because of its location - our room overlooked the main plaza - Plaza de Armas. We would be arriving late at night very tired from the Inca Trail. We booked their nicest room - I wanted a treat after the dirt and ground of the trail, and I wanted to overlook the activity of the plaza.  Service was nice; breakfast was plain. I can't recommend their other (regular) rooms since I didn't see them - but they don't view the plaza. Our room and bathroom were very large with a balcony over the plaza. We slept with the door ajar and listened to the activity of the plaza, and enjoyed watching it early in the morning. As it turns out, there is a Starbucks very close by in the plaza which I enjoyed drinking in the middle of the plaza. 

Inca Trail = SAS Travel Peru
I had narrowed down who to book our Trail through to two agencies. SAS responded right away where the other (the one I was leaning towards) did not - which unfortunately turned out to be a problem with their email service. When you book the Inca Trail, regardless of who you book through, there are only 500 spots available per day. The quantity available is updated daily, and they go quickly during the dry (non-rainy) season. 

SAS responded to emails within 24 hours but they often did not address every question, and all the information they provide is contradicting. They sent two confirmation emails with contradicting information. They guaranteed us camp Winay Wayna (on the last night) when we booked (my condition to booking with them) - which we were informed upon arrival we did not get. They offered to book our Huayna Picchu tickets, and then doubled the price when I asked them to book it (all in the same string of emails).  Lastly, there was no bus to pick us up when we arrived from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and when we did get a van, it was too small so everyone was squished and our bags were on our laps.  Other than the office organization, the trip was terrific!  The porters, cook and guide are hard working and attentive. The food was delicious, and I am somewhat picky. The equipment was top notch - and I definitely recommend renting as much as possible (do not bring your own sleeping bag)!  Their heavy sleeping bags are extremely warm for those cold temps, and they include a liner.  If you are not into details or specifics, this is the company for you. 

Absolutely hire a porter. And don't fall short with only 6kg - that only holds your sleeping bag and sleeping pad. And if you weigh your duffle at your hotel the night before, plan in SAS telling you it is still too heavy when they weigh it at the trail entrance (their scale is calibrated differently).

Regardless- with them you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Adios Adventure Travel Review - Juan Jose



Through my Cusco trip planning and google searches, Vidal kept popping up with good reviews. In the early planning stages, I was making all the arrangements and had no intention of hiring a guide; we always do everything ourselves and I assumed I could not afford Vidal's services. Then 2 weeks before we left, I was under quite a bit of work stress which was causing me to be out of sorts.  At the same time I came across Adios Adventure Travel. Then I realized it was Vidal's company. I figured it was meant to be. I started emails with Jacquie in the US and Vidal in Peru. Both promptly respond to emails and are very helpful. Even though it was more than I wanted to spend, I really felt I was in good hands - and booked 2 1/2 days of guided tours. I was hoping for Vidal to be our guide, but it was the last minute so of course he was already booked. He recommended his good friend Juan Jose. Now I too very highly recommend Juan!!  Of the 4-5 guides we used during our trip, he was an absolute highlight. He was a tremendous resource - he should write a travel guide!  He was extremely accurately knowledgeable about his ancestry - the Inca. He never contradicted himself. Staying with him for 2 1/2 days meant he built upon each story which was much better than hearing bits and pieces and repeats. We felt extremely safe with him. He was very protective of us, and always took charge and acted as our translator. He was extremely respectful of the environment and community, and very friendly - even with a great sense of humor. He is 100% responsible for our enriching experience.  I always have so many unanswered questions when I travel to another country - but thanks to him I had every question answered.  I learned so much about Peru and its people.  His English is excellent.  We had a great time with him!  My biggest regret was not continuing with him into the Inca Trail and into Machu Picchu - but I had no idea back in April that he even existed. 

One thing I felt strongly about was bringing school supplies to give to the kids in the Sacred Valley. When I asked Vidal and Jacquie for help with this, they arranged for us to stop at a school in Ollantaytambo where we could donate the suitcase of supplies we brought. 

Another perk was working with Jacquie in the US. She understands how Americans work and their expectations. She is thorough and prompt. Payment is easy since she is in the US - I was able to use PayPal and dollars. 

If you are looking for a guide or any services, I highly recommend you go through Adios Adventure Travel!



Day 10 - Last Day: Lima

Today began our journey home. We had half the day in Cusco and then flew back to Lima. 

We had a casual morning enjoying the plaza, and wandering around for the last few gifts. 

Then we were touristo stupido. We let our airport taxi driver give us a counterfeit 10 soles.  Greg could tell immediately it felt different and I noticed it was missing the usual picture of Machu Picchu - but we were focused on checking in to our flight. We didn't actually realize it was a counterfeit until we tried to pay the Lima taxi with it!  Greg is more upset with the fact that we fell for the scam than for the amount we lost -$4. We also tipped that asshole (it is uncommon to tip taxis in Peru)!

We never take taxis, anywhere, and today we took 3 more.  Our B&B had already taught us how to get the best rate on a taxi. If you get one in the airport, you have to pay a fixed price. So instead you catch one of the taxis leaving the airport - the ones who just dropped someone off. We paid almost 1/3 this way - not that they didn't try to get the higher fare first!

We tried to make the best out of our Lima layover -  most of it we would be sleeping.  We took a taxi to Kennedy Park in Miraflores.  I had read it is full of live entertainment - but it wasn't today. Half of it was blocked off. The other part had a tiny artisan market, a playground, and scattered snack vendors. It also had at least 20 very tame cats laying around... The dogs here are on leashes. 

We couldn't get our bearings on the tiny map we had. The street names on the map didn't match the actual street names - not sure why?  

We enjoyed a malto Cusquino at a cafe along the park, grabbed some sandwiches to go, and took them to the malecon - an easy walk from Kennedy Park. It was the usual cloud layer in Lima so there was no sunset. We walked through Lover's Park, then called it a day. We'd be leaving for the airport again at 2:15am. 

I have to admit we still haven't nailed down the best way to get currency when we travel, but this trip was particularly bad. One of the ATM limits was 400 soles ($160) which doesn't go far!  And then NO ONE would take big bills and we didn't know how to get change. Even Starbucks wanted exact change. We tried to pay the taxi 50 soles ($20) and he wouldn't take it!

Anyway, it is all behind us now. We had a truly unforgettable trip, and can't wait to get back to our kids and the comforts of home!