Review of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu - 4D3N

If you love the outdoors and exercise, I highly recommend this trek!  It is not easy which makes the rewards even more amazing!  It is the trip of a lifetime!

My husband and I are 41. We trained for this hike. I work out 3-4 times per week regardless but I ramped it up to much harder workouts, and he basically started from scratch - for 4 months. The only altitude practice we got was hiking Half Dome. 

I recommend this trek for almost any age!  No matter what your heart will pound and you will be out of breath at that altitude.  The key is to go slow. The altitude has unpredictable effects, but you feel it no matter what!  For 20 somethings, it is easiest. For 30 somethings, you might have to work at it. Past that, you really should train!  Over 50 - it depends on the person.  We had a 60 year old lady on our hike. I do not think she trained at all. She said she runs all day on her nursing job. She was crushed when the 1st day, the "easy" day was so hard for her. The guide and porters carried all of her equipment and daypack (for a fee) -- but she made it!  

Rent as much equipment as you can, and hire a porter to carry 9kg (the sleeping bag and sleeping pad alone are 4kg). When the equipment is rented, you do not need to worry about it on the last day - nor do you need to drag it all over Peru. Our company had nice equipment; the sleeping bag was very warm and had a liner. 

Take your time on the hike. If you hurry, you will miss details. There is no reason to get there fast because you always have to wait for your group to catch up, and there is nothing to do at camp - the trail is better. I ended up carrying both daypacks = 22 pounds. The weight didn't bother me because I went slowly. 

I was worried about freezing when the sun went down. I am always freezing (below 70 degrees Fahrenheit). But I was not cold at night, or ever. I never even wore my jacket. Layers are the key!  My layers:  a sports bra, a t-shirt, a long sleeve light weight shirt, a fleece, a hat, gloves and a thick rain jacket. It is warm in the dining tent and the sleeping bag. 

No matter what bring hiking boots. The trail is completely uneven at all times and slippery even when it is dry. 

We had no idea we should bring a garbage bag so we bought one along the way. To keep it dry in case of rain, you put all your stuff in it, including sleeping bag - inside the duffle that the porters carry. 

You can buy drinks (beer, water and gatorade 9-12 soles each) at several places on the first day, and one place on the 2nd morning. That is all. The bar and store at the last night were shut down this year. The company provides plenty of water for the trail (days 2-4) and drinks during meals. Make sure you drink plenty of liquids or the effects of the high altitude will be exaggerated. 

The bugs were not bad at all - for us. We brought 95% deet. (Careful of aerosol cans because airlines like Star Peru do not allow it - not even in your checked luggage.) We met some guys who did the Salcantay trail and they were covered with bites!!

The Quechua way is to share. Plan to share with the porters - coca leaves, bug spray, etc. 

Buy coca leaves!  They seem to be the wonder "drug". I'm not sure how exactly I was affected by them because you don't "feel" something - like you do with caffeine. Don't bother with coca candy unless you like to suck on something; it has no effect. 

 

Our company supplied snacks on 3 of the 4 days but also recommended to bring them. I had granola bars and fruit bars but wish I had a loose bag of nuts or trail mix or dried fruit - so I could eat a few pieces at a time. With all the food the company provides, you will not go hungry (or lose weight).

Wear 2 pairs of socks - to prevent blisters, especially on downhills. Don't forget to cut your toenails before the trek; clip fingernails short too or they will break anyway.  Bring a dry shirt to change into after finishing day 1 and 2. You finish high up; it is windy and it gets cold when the sun goes down; don't stay in your wet clothes. You can hang your wet shirt on your daypack to dry when you hike - like the porters do. 

The porters are always running by. Stop on the mountain side to let them pass. Do not get close to the local's donkeys on the 1st day; they can kick very hard!

For our trip the showers on the last day were cold water only - and free. Bring one-use travel shower supplies - stores in Cusco sell them. There was also one shower stall on nights 1 and 2 but all the camps and bathrooms are different. 

Every morning and evening the porters provide a dog bowl size of warm water to freshen up with. A wash bowl and trash bag were also provided at the dining tent.  Bring wipes and a small towel. 

Do not forget a decent head lamp (not flashlight) and spare batteries. This is your only light source in your tent, the bathroom, and early the last morning. 

99% of the toilets are a hole in the ground. Do not forget your toilet paper and hand sanitizer. There are some toilets along the trail and at the camp - or your company will bring a toilet tent. 

Always keep your tent zipped so you don't get any unwanted creatures. 

There were llamas along the way: the morning of day 2, the ruins before Winay Wayna, and around Machu Picchu. 

In advance I was very confused about how much to tip the porters. Our company told us $40 total, and reassured me such in an email. However my guide confided different amounts. We had 10 porters, 1 cook and 1 coordinator. The 9 of us each tipped a total of 100 soles ($40) for these porters. The total breakout was 600 soles for 10 porters (so 60 each - which they divide out), 180 for the cook, and 120 for the coordinator.  We pooled our tips together and gave them at the goodbye/ thank you ceremony on the last night. As for the guides... 1 guide is required for every 8 trekkers. Since we had 9 trekkers we had 2 guides (which was great because one always led the group and one always stayed behind the last person).  We tipped the guides on the last day - after Machu Picchu. (Our guides did not return on the train with us; they took the much cheaper local's train.) We chose to tip the guides equally 25 soles per person each guide. Then we had an additional tip: one of our porters met us at Machu Picchu. Note - porters are not allowed past the Winay Wayna check point into Machu Picchu, so our porter had to walk down to Aguas Calientes and then up to Machu Picchu. He delivered our personal supplies (duffle bags) to Aguas Calientes. (Our rented sleeping bags and provided sleeping mats were taken from us at the last camp.) He brought us breakfast #2 to Machu Picchu, and took our rented poles (no poles allowed in Machu Picchu). Our provided duffle bag was taken from us in Aguas Calientes but we could use it til Cusco, if needed. Lastly, he met us at the bus and took us to the meeting point in Aguas Calientes. For all this we only tipped him 3 soles each. So my total tip was 153 ($61). I wouldn't plan on tipping less than this!

I cannot say whether or not to bring hiking poles. I have never used them, did not use them, and did not miss them. However most others swore by how useful they are!

A guide always carried oxygen and a first aid kit. If you get ill before the top of Dead Woman's Peak, a guide or porter will return back down with you, and you can take the train to Machu Picchu (at your expense). If you get ill after Dead Woman's Peak, you will be brought to the finish. 

 

The last morning you get up at 3:30am (or earlier) because the porters have to run down to their 5am local train. We had breakfast and then walked to the checkpoint that was in the camp (Winay Wayna). At 4:00am we sat and waited for it to open at 5:30am. (This check point stops people from entering Machu Picchu when it is closed.) Technically at least 250 hikers will be in this line. The first ~50 will get to sit on a covered bench; the rest get the ground.

From the check point it is about 1 hour to the Sun Gate where you get your first view of Machu Picchu. The trail is narrow and does not allow for easy passing. Then you hike down 30 minutes to Machu Picchu and the classic view. At that point you walk to the nearby entrance/exit to officially enter with your ticket. The entrance is where there is a normal bathroom (1 sole), food, storage (fee) and hotel - none of these are allowed inside the sanctuary. You will not be the first person into Machu Picchu; it opens at 6am and you cannot reach it from the checkpoint much before 7am. 

On your way out of Machu Picchu, don't forget to stamp your passport (on the right, before the exit).

 

WHAT YOU NEED ON THE INCA TRAIL:

€        Original passport and copies

€        Sleeping bag and poles (not included)

€        Hiking waterproof boots

€        Thick plastic rain poncho

Remember:  Even during the dry season there can be the occasional heavy downpour

€        Warm jacket, hat, gloves and wool socks

€        Extra set of clothes for the night/PJs

€        After trekking shoes are nice

€        Sun hat and sunglasses

€        2 T-shirts / 2 long-sleeve shirts

€        Comfortable hiking <zip off> trousers

€        Socks, underwear

€        Bathing suit (for hot springs)

€        Water bottle

€        Toilet paper and lots of wet wipes

€        Hand sanitizer

€        Towel, very small travel one

€        Personal medication, bandaids

€        Headache, antacid medicines

€        Diarrhea and constipation medicines

€        Toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, hair gel

€        Flashlight/headlamp with spare batteries

€        Money for tipping and for any emergency (local currency) = 300 sols pp

€        Dried fruit, candies and chocolates

€        Pillow (travel size) if deflates

€        Sport Bra

€        Sunscreen

€        Insect Repellent

€        Daypacks

 

Note: Pack in lots of large ziplock bags

 

 

DAY PACK:

€        Camera

€        Sunglasses

€        water bottle

€        sunscreen

€        bug spray

€        pocketknife with scissors/clippers

€        blister stuff (moleskin)

€        baby wipes

€        hand sanitizer

€        sunhat

€        fleece layer

€        extra socks

€        extra t-shirt

€        raincoat / waterproof cover

€        Blistex

€        Headache, antacid medicine

€        Snacks

€        Coca leaves

 

 

SAS Travel Peru Review = 4D3N Trek to Machu Picchu

I had narrowed down whom to book our Trail through to two agencies: SAS
Travel Peru and United Mice. If you are looking to book a trek, I urge you
to consider Adios Adventure Travel (I didn't know about them when I booked).


SAS responded right away where the other (the one I was leaning towards) did
not - which unfortunately turned out to be a problem with their email
service. When you book the Inca Trail, regardless of who you book through,
there are only 500 spots available per day. The quantity available is
updated daily, and they go quickly during the dry (non-rainy) season.

SAS responded to emails within 24 hours but they often did not address every
question, and all the information they provide is contradicting. They sent
two confirmation emails with contradicting information. They guaranteed us
camp Winay Wayna (on the last night) when we booked (my condition to booking
with them) - which we were informed upon arrival we did not get. They
offered to book our Huayna Picchu tickets, and then doubled the price when I
asked them to book it (all in the same string of emails). Lastly, there was
no bus to pick us up when we arrived from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo,
and when we did get a van, it was too small so everyone was squished and our
bags were on our laps. Other than the office organization, the trip was
terrific! The porters, cook and guide are hardworking and attentive. There
was a variety of delicious and plentiful food - and I am somewhat picky. The
equipment was top notch - and I definitely recommend renting as much as
possible (do not bring your own sleeping bag)! Their heavy sleeping bags
are extremely warm for those cold temps, and they include a liner. If you
are not into details or specifics, this is the company for you.

Absolutely hire a porter. And don't fall short with only 6kg - that only
holds your sleeping bag and sleeping pad. And if you weigh your duffle at
your hotel the night before, plan in SAS telling you it is still too heavy
when they weigh it at the trail entrance (their scale is calibrated
differently).

Regardless- with them you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Our Hotels in Panama and Peru

Panama = Country Inn & Suites (on the Causeway, not the one in town). I booked through their website. After I booked, I received discount deals (emails) from them, so not only rebooked for 30% less, but also upgraded to a canal-view suite at a fraction of the cost. I looked into staying in town or in the jungle but decided the Causeway was best suited for us. We enjoyed being along the canal and having the causeway activities so close by. Breakfast is included. This was probably the nicest hotel of our trip.  We received a voucher for a free coffee from their shop, and it was quite good.  When booking a hotel, take into consideration the cost/ease of transportation to get there. Cost to the city is quite reasonable ($15)  but to the jungle is expensive ($100). Causeway would have been close to $45 but we hired a tour guide/driver instead. 

Lima = B&B Lima Casa Guadalupe. I booked through booking.com but you can go direct.  Their price was right - esp. for our short stay (hours).  They had good reviews, are one of the closest to the airport (10 minutes if no traffic), and the owners are very nice and helpful. We paid for their service where they hire a taxi to meet us at the airport (they do not own a car), and then to return us to the airport. One of them came with us both ways, and gave us directions for the airport. The room is plain but it met our needs. The breakfast is included and was basic and good. They also held our Panama bag for us for a week until we returned. They offered to make us a 2am breakfast but we declined; they did get up however to hail us a taxi.  And since I thanked her with Ghiradelli chocolates, she sent me home with cake!

Ollantaytambo = Apu Lodge. I booked directly through them. They responded to my emails very promptly, and set up a guide for me - which I ended up canceling (and went with Juan Jose instead). They were also willing to book our tickets to Huayna Picchu for a very fair price. They have good reviews - equal to another place in town.  I specifically reserved a room with a view of the ruins, which we got. The room actually fit 4 people. The room was not fancy but definitely met our needs. It included a decent breakfast -  the "best" of our trip. I was disappointed to not meet either owner - who I had exchanged emails with, but the workers were very friendly and helpful. Pay attention to their directions for how to use the shower so you don't end up with a cold one!

Cusco:

1) Second Home Cusco

I booked through expedia but you can book direct. The B&B only has 3 rooms. I chose it because of its location - San Blas - and its excellent reviews.  It was not cheap - you can stay in many other reasonable places in Cusco for less. But it was worth every penny. Carlos was exceptional. His replies to emails were instant.  He offered to pick us up at the airport on our arrival even though we did not stay with him that night. (I feel terrible because he actually went to the airport to get us - a miscommunication I believe was due to translation.) He was constantly asking to accommodate all of our needs. He cooked us breakfast to order (eggs).  He would book any tours or services we needed. He booked our dinner reservations and our Huayna Picchu tickets - at face value. He held our bags while we were on the Inca Trail, and then he delivered them to our next hotel in Cusco. The morning we had to leave for our trek, he got up before 5am to make us tea and say goodbye; he even packed us a picnic breakfast to go. The room was a suite and it was very nice. Make sure you have good directions. Because it is small, it is not well-known. The addresses on the street are random - not in numerical order. You cannot take a taxi directly there because the street is pedestrian only.  I hesitate to say anything negative but feel I must disclose one thing - the room is not sound proof. You can hear the other activities like you would in your own home. I didn't mind though - since it made it feel more like home.  Our Second Home :)

2) El Vierrey Boutique

I booked this through booking.com. I chose it because of its location - our room overlooked the main plaza - Plaza de Armas. We would be arriving late at night very tired from the Inca Trail. We booked their nicest room - I wanted a treat after the dirt and ground of the trail, and I wanted to overlook the activity of the plaza.  Service was nice; breakfast was plain. I can't recommend their other (regular) rooms since I didn't see them - but they don't view the plaza. Our room and bathroom were very large with a balcony over the plaza. We slept with the door ajar and listened to the activity of the plaza, and enjoyed watching it early in the morning. As it turns out, there is a Starbucks very close by in the plaza which I enjoyed drinking in the middle of the plaza. 

Inca Trail = SAS Travel Peru

I had narrowed down who to book our Trail through to two agencies. SAS responded right away where the other (the one I was leaning towards) did not - which unfortunately turned out to be a problem with their email service. When you book the Inca Trail, regardless of who you book through, there are only 500 spots available per day. The quantity available is updated daily, and they go quickly during the dry (non-rainy) season. 

SAS responded to emails within 24 hours but they often did not address every question, and all the information they provide is contradicting. They sent two confirmation emails with contradicting information. They guaranteed us camp Winay Wayna (on the last night) when we booked (my condition to booking with them) - which we were informed upon arrival we did not get. They offered to book our Huayna Picchu tickets, and then doubled the price when I asked them to book it (all in the same string of emails).  Lastly, there was no bus to pick us up when we arrived from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and when we did get a van, it was too small so everyone was squished and our bags were on our laps.  Other than the office organization, the trip was terrific!  The porters, cook and guide are hard working and attentive. The food was delicious, and I am somewhat picky. The equipment was top notch - and I definitely recommend renting as much as possible (do not bring your own sleeping bag)!  Their heavy sleeping bags are extremely warm for those cold temps, and they include a liner.  If you are not into details or specifics, this is the company for you. 

Absolutely hire a porter. And don't fall short with only 6kg - that only holds your sleeping bag and sleeping pad. And if you weigh your duffle at your hotel the night before, plan in SAS telling you it is still too heavy when they weigh it at the trail entrance (their scale is calibrated differently).

Regardless- with them you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Adios Adventure Travel Review - Juan Jose

Through my Cusco trip planning and google searches, Vidal kept popping up with good reviews. In the early planning stages, I was making all the arrangements and had no intention of hiring a guide; we always do everything ourselves and I assumed I could not afford Vidal's services. Then 2 weeks before we left, I was under quite a bit of work stress which was causing me to be out of sorts.  At the same time I came across Adios Adventure Travel. Then I realized it was Vidal's company. I figured it was meant to be. I started emails with Jacquie in the US and Vidal in Peru. Both promptly respond to emails and are very helpful. Even though it was more than I wanted to spend, I really felt I was in good hands - and booked 2 1/2 days of guided tours. I was hoping for Vidal to be our guide, but it was the last minute so of course he was already booked. He recommended his good friend Juan Jose. Now I too very highly recommend Juan!!  Of the 4-5 guides we used during our trip, he was an absolute highlight. He was a tremendous resource - he should write a travel guide!  He was extremely accurately knowledgeable about his ancestry - the Inca. He never contradicted himself. Staying with him for 2 1/2 days meant he built upon each story which was much better than hearing bits and pieces and repeats. We felt extremely safe with him. He was very protective of us, and always took charge and acted as our translator. He was extremely respectful of the environment and community, and very friendly - even with a great sense of humor. He is 100% responsible for our enriching experience.  I always have so many unanswered questions when I travel to another country - but thanks to him I had every question answered.  I learned so much about Peru and its people.  His English is excellent.  We had a great time with him!  My biggest regret was not continuing with him into the Inca Trail and into Machu Picchu - but I had no idea back in April that he even existed. 

One thing I felt strongly about was bringing school supplies to give to the kids in the Sacred Valley. When I asked Vidal and Jacquie for help with this, they arranged for us to stop at a school in Ollantaytambo where we could donate the suitcase of supplies we brought. 

Another perk was working with Jacquie in the US. She understands how Americans work and their expectations. She is thorough and prompt. Payment is easy since she is in the US - I was able to use PayPal and dollars. 

If you are looking for a guide or any services, I highly recommend you go through Adios Adventure Travel!

Day 10 - Last Day: Lima

Today began our journey home. We had half the day in Cusco and then flew back to Lima. 

We had a casual morning enjoying the plaza, and wandering around for the last few gifts. 

Then we were touristo stupido. We let our airport taxi driver give us a counterfeit 10 soles.  Greg could tell immediately it felt different and I noticed it was missing the usual picture of Machu Picchu - but we were focused on checking in to our flight. We didn't actually realize it was a counterfeit until we tried to pay the Lima taxi with it!  Greg is more upset with the fact that we fell for the scam than for the amount we lost -$4. We also tipped that asshole (it is uncommon to tip taxis in Peru)!

We never take taxis, anywhere, and today we took 3 more.  Our B&B had already taught us how to get the best rate on a taxi. If you get one in the airport, you have to pay a fixed price. So instead you catch one of the taxis leaving the airport - the ones who just dropped someone off. We paid almost 1/3 this way - not that they didn't try to get the higher fare first!

We tried to make the best out of our Lima layover -  most of it we would be sleeping.  We took a taxi to Kennedy Park in Miraflores.  I had read it is full of live entertainment - but it wasn't today. Half of it was blocked off. The other part had a tiny artisan market, a playground, and scattered snack vendors. It also had at least 20 very tame cats laying around... The dogs here are on leashes. 

We couldn't get our bearings on the tiny map we had. The street names on the map didn't match the actual street names - not sure why?  

We enjoyed a malto Cusquino at a cafe along the park, grabbed some sandwiches to go, and took them to the malecon - an easy walk from Kennedy Park. It was the usual cloud layer in Lima so there was no sunset. We walked through Lover's Park, then called it a day. We'd be leaving for the airport again at 2:15am. 

I have to admit we still haven't nailed down the best way to get currency when we travel, but this trip was particularly bad. One of the ATM limits was 400 soles ($160) which doesn't go far!  And then NO ONE would take big bills and we didn't know how to get change. Even Starbucks wanted exact change. We tried to pay the taxi 50 soles ($20) and he wouldn't take it!

Anyway, it is all behind us now. We had a truly unforgettable trip, and can't wait to get back to our kids and the comforts of home!

Day 9 - Machu Picchu

Wow! Today was pure bliss. Like complete happiness! It is one thing to visit Machu Picchu, and something completely more meaningful to reach it after 4 hard, relentless, enduring, delightful, wonderful days! If you enjoy the outdoors and exercise, I highly recommend this hike!

Our day started at 3:30am with the knock on our tent. It rained most of last night but stopped by this time. It was a rush to beat the other 500 trekkers to the check in point, hardly a 5 minute walk away. We beat about 450 of them, just missed the benches, and sat in the dirt for the next 1 1/2 hours until the check point opened (it is the only way to keep people out of Machu Picchu while it is closed). As miserable as this might sound, it was not one bit! Then the gates opened, and the adrenaline started pumping. Knowing we were an hour away from the highlight of our trip - we would have run there had there not been 50 people ahead of us slowing us down!

Gasping for breath, we reached the rewarding Sun Gate after 50 minutes. It is the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca Trail but it is quite high up and still 30 minutes away from the sanctuary.

At the guard house we stopped to take the classic Machu Picchu picture (more like 20+ pictures). It is a view you will never forget.

Then we actually had to leave - the exit/entrance wasn't far - to have our 2nd breakfast, use a REAL toilet (oh - the joy of sitting down to pee!), and get our entrance ticket stamped so we could officially go inside.

Next our guide gave us a 2-hour tour of the site. Greg and I got a kick out of seeing THE tree in Machu Picchu (the tree in every photo) because we told Kate we would sit under it... We didn't know the entire field is roped off - off limits.

Sunday is free local day, and we noticed some in their traditional dress. I assumed they were the usual dress-up people who are looking for a quick tourist buck, but these were the real thing. They were the the shawmen/women from their town, who had travelled far to come to this sacred place. They made for some nice photos.

At 10am Greg and I had a date with Huayna Picchu mountain - to climb to the top of it. It is the tall mountain you always see in every picture of Machu Picchu; the Inca used it for special sacred ceremonies. Only 400 people are allowed to climb it a day, so you need to reserve your time in advance. The trail is exceptionally steep, and at times the stairs are like climbing a ladder. At the top, we hung our feet over the edge, popped the cork on the bottle of Gatorade I'd been carrying since early the second day, and took in the beauty of the sanctuary of Machu Picchu. I can't believe we are actually here!

Just as we got down off Huayna Picchu mountain, and found our way through the maze of ruins to the bus down to Aguas Calientes, it started to rain. In town we met back up with the rest of our group at the bar "Machu Pisco". There we found out that a couple of our trek mates got engaged at Machu Picchu!

The train ride back on Peru Rail was like riding through a greenhouse. The flora was green, lush and more what I was expecting from a jungle. SAS graciously upgraded our tickets to the fancy vista dome train, including meal service; not the Orient Express but it was quite the luxury after 4 days on the trail!

In Cusco we had to say goodbye to our new friends. When we met on the 1st day, and took our "family" photo at the start of the trail, I disliked the loose use of the word family. These strangers are not my family. I also secretly wished I was with a group of Americans rather than foreigners from Israel, Belgium, and the UK. So quite to my surprise, we very much enjoyed our time with these nice couples, and the fact that they were not Americans only enrichened our experience!

Tonight, in Cusco, as a treat we are staying in a nice room that opens onto the Plaza de Armas. We are exhausted!

Day 8 - The Unforgetable Inca Trail

The third morning started with rain - and happy 60th (!) birthday wishes to one of our porters. Greg isn't sleeping well - in a tent on a thin sleeping mat. He is thinking of stealing my mat from me. I'm getting some of the best sleep I have had in weeks. Greg said, "I know, you were snoring along with the porters!". They sleep all together in the dining tent next to us.

The rain stopped by the time we got started - early even though we didn't have far to go, and were done hiking for the day by lunch. It was something like 2 hours to the summit, and then 2 hours down to camp. We were in fog for more than 1/2 the morning.

The summit was nothing special since we could only see fog. It was quite drab, barren surroundings. I had to use the bano which was the worst yet - so bad everyone took a look and instead went to find a bush. It was a hole in the ground with no water to wash away the feces that missed the hole. So, as it turns out, this was our camping spot for the night!! And quite possibly the worst thing about this place is that it is over 4 hours from Machu Picchu, which means on the next morning, we would have to leave at 2am! But our guide didn't tell me any if this until we left it behind us, and instead went to commandeer space at camp Winay Wayna. If you ever make this trek, make sure you are staying at Winay Wayna on your 3rd night!! It was my only criteria when booking the trek, but obviously SAS messed up somewhere. Apparently while they were waiting to get more than 9 people on our trek, they lost the gamble and the camp filled up. There are several camps along the trek - not just one place for each night. It is the job of the trekking company to book the camps.

Today was labeled "unforgettable". It was! Not in the way I imagined though, but gorgeous all the same. I pictured something more exotic in the jungle. But with the fog and steep 2,000+ steps down (all original Inca trail), there wasn't much to look at; you had to focus very carefully on each step. Even though there was no challenge to the lungs today, you really needed to take it slow because of sore legs and feet but especially so you stop often to enjoy the beauty. I was always looking in every direction. In fact at one of the ruins, something caused me to look far to the side of me, and I spotted a few llama that we all stopped to watch and photo for a bit. The back drop of the photos was Machu Picchu mountain. We can see it now, and even people walking along the top of it, but the actual ruins are still out if view - our reward for tomorrow.

After lunch it was time to shower - another adventure. Free cold water for anyone daring enough! That would be me, and not Greg; he still stinks. The very cold water pours out an open spout like a hose (no shower head). At least it is warm today ~ 75 degrees. And I am clean!

There was supposed to be beer waiting at this camp - they had a bar and a store - but the government shut it down this year. Instead our cook "cooked" us a cake for happy hour; it is amazing what he can create in his camping kitchen!

The view out our tent is of the mountains and valley below. It is absolutely beautiful. The view to our left is Machu Picchu mountain. I could get used to this!

Day 7 - Dead Woman's Peak

We have to find a shirt that says "I survived Dead Woman's Peak"! It is the hardest and highest (13,776 ft) part of the trail. We left camp this morning at 6:30 and hiked straight up stair rocks for 3 hours. It is like walking Yosemite's Mist trail but for a really really long time and at a much much higher altitude. We celebrated our accomplishment at the top with tea and cheese sandwiches. Along the way there were more llama, and spectacular views of several mountains and valleys.

The rest of the day was long with steep downhills and even some more uphill. We reached our 2nd and last high summit ~3pm. After that we hiked through a foggy cloud forest - no views past 20 feet.

Greg was being esp. careful today because he accidentally got dehydrated yesterday, which really takes a toll on your body at this altitude. Last night he had tingling fingers and was uncontrollably shivering. I was ready to turn back but he woke up feeling great and ready to go! He had feared the downhills would be brutal on his knees but he didn't feel them at all.

We arrived at camp at 5:30 pm. No locals here selling Cusquino, and earlier Greg paid $5 for his Gatorade which would cost $1.50 in Cusco. We are definitely off the beaten path here! Even though it was a long, hard day, I really enjoyed it.

No pictures (from the phone) today.

Day 6 - Inca Trail Day 1

The first part of the day was not exciting. First, it started too early and involved a long bus ride. We left Cusco at 5:30 am. We had several hours to drive to the start of the trail, called Kilometer 82. We stopped for breakfast (eggs) and supplies right outside Ollantaytambo. Then we had another ~45 minute ride on a dirt road. When we got to the starting point, they weighed our bags that the porters carry. Unfortunately their scale was calibrated higher than the hotel scales so everyone had to take 2kg out and carry it themselves.

The Inca Trail starts out dry with cactus along the Urubumba River. It was fairly easy but they took us slow and had us break often. Locals sell chicha (homemade corn beer) along the way so we had a sip. Probably an acquired taste! Mostly tasted like fermentation. We bought Gatorade instead.

We had to reserve our spot for the hike over 5 months in advance. Only 500 people are allowed to start the trail each day - but at least half of that amount are necessary porters, guides and cooks.

The porters have only one speed - they are always running. They run passed us with ~80 pounds on their backs (stools, propane tanks, tents, etc - topped off with dozens of eggs). They run because they are in a hurry to get to the next stop and set up all the equipment.

By the time we arrived at the lunch location, the porters had set up a cooking tent, a dining tent (table with tablecloth, chairs, etc) and a full-on hearty lunch was ready and waiting. They put 6 different dishes in front of us, including soup. After lunch Greg and I found an open field and took a siesta.

The next part of the trail got better - we had turned into a different valley, and this one was greener. They let us go at our own pace so we weren't on each others heels. Instead of having us stop at the normal overnight campground, they had us get a start on tomorrow's "challenge". We hiked for 90 minutes straight up. At one point 3 llama came charging down the trail towards me. It definitely deserved a "holy shit" outloud! They stopped abruptly when they saw me - they are gentle animals. It was pretty cool.

When we got to the stopping place for the day, the porters had our tents set up and waiting. A local lady trekked up to us with a pack of drinks on her back. She was selling Cusquino beer - which, even warm, tasted very good. We watched the sun go down over the valley and mountains.

Next they served us tea, cookies and popcorn. And a bit later came a delicious dinner. The food is all very good!

The camp does have a bathroom -- lovely holes in the ground. I think it is going to take me a while to master that technique!

Even though it isn't 8pm yet, everyone goes to bed after dinner. It is supposed to get below freezing tonight.

You can definitely feel the altitude up here. The tradition to help with the altitude is to suck on a wad of coco leaves - kind of like chewing tobacco. I'm thinking that is what got me up that hill so easily!

Day 5 - Cusco

Today's pace was much slower, which is a good thing because Greg is tired.  After a later start and finding a Starbucks in the Plaza de Armas, Juan took us for a walking tour of Cusco. 

On the main street are paid workers in traditional dress and a plastic carnival mask holding a sign: respect the crosswalks - their way of discouraging jaywalking. The cars have the right of way, and don't care about you. Suddenly Juan jumped into the path of an oncoming bus to swoop up a young boy ~3 who was not moving off the street quickly enough (and mama was oblivious). 

After walking passed the stone with 12 edges, and touring Qorikancha (Inca's huge gold religious center/ Temple of the Sun), we went to the San Pedro market. We saw so many strange sights!  Of course the most unusual was the llama fetus,  but they also had breads, fish (piles of fish eggs), many varieties of potatoes, fresh produce, flowers, chicha (corn beer), and fresh blended fruit smoothies. Since we couldn't barter down the price of the pig's head, our only purchase was bags of coco leaves for the trail tomorrow.  

Next Juan took us to the Handicraft Center (large souvenir market), where we bid each other our "hasta la vista" since we cannot say goodbye. It was actually a huge downer; he was just amazing these past few days!

After making more purchases than we have room for, we enjoyed a late lunch on the patio of Pachapapa on the San Blas square. Unfortunately we could not order the guinea pig, an Andean delicacy, because they need 24 hour notice.  Darn.  So we had to settle for pizza and calzone from the adobe  oven. 

It is amazing how quickly our bodies produce more red blood cells to help us acclimate to this high altitude!  Each time we climb the hill to our hotel, it is noticeably easier and easier. 

Tonight we checked into tomorrow's 4 day 3 night Inca Trail tour and found out we are the oldest ones in a group of nine. I am excluding the 59 year old as the outlier. The rest are in their 20s and from Israel, Belgium and the UK.  We will be hiking as high as 13,776 feet, and then down to Machu Picchu.  They described the 1st day as easy, the 2nd as challenging, the 3rd as unforgettable, and the last as unique.

We just spent the last hour weighing our bags, taking stuff out, and weighing them again.  We hired a porter to carry 6kg (each) for us, which turns out to be a sleeping bag and mat plus a change of clothes. The rest of or supplies we have to carry in  our daypack. Mine weighs about 12 pounds - ugh. I can't get any lighter - that is seriously all basics, except for my camera which I refuse to give up!  Greg's bag is 10 pounds. 

Tomorrow is an early morning - our bus picks us up at 5:15pm.  We "go dark" for the next three nights... The Inca didn't have wi-fi on the trail!

Hasta la vista!

Day 4 - Sacred Valley to Cusco

This morning I went out exploring the little town of Ollantaytambo at 6:00 am just after the sun came up. It was an fun adventure to wander through the maze of streets on a scavenger hunt for photographic treasures. I was surprised at the amount of cars and locals out and about in this very small town! And these people bustle around even faster than I do!

We met Juan and started with a tour of the town's ruins. We all know what incredible builders the Inca were, but when you look first-hand at the rocks they carved, it really is mind boggling! It is one thing to carve - by hand - a straight edge or a curved edge, but it is the mirrored aligning curvature, fitting multiple pieces together, that is so impressive! And something you don't see in these complete walls is the hidden parts that were cut like Lego pieces to fit together and remain intact for all these years.

The ruins are a climb up through the pyramid of terraces, and allow a great view of the town. We were looking across towards the grainery on the opposing hill, and talking about the face formation on the rock. For the life of him, Greg could not see a face. Juan joked that his coco tea hadn't kicked in, and he told us the legend of the face. Just as he was finishing, Greg's coco set in - and he interrupted excitedly, "I see it!" I couldn't stop laughing. It just seemed so child-like, which is so unlike Greg!

On our way out of town, we stopped at a small school for girls to donate a little suitcase full of supplies we brought (because it was something I felt strongly about doing). The girls could not afford to commute the long distance (from the surrounding hills) to school each day, so this was a home as well. They were ages 14-16, and quite shy and giggly.

We drove across the Valley to the town of Pisac. They are known for their large market as well as their ruins. We bought few souvenirs and a delicious lunch. I tried to haggle a little but my guilt - they need this money - always won them the higher price.

The alpaca and llama farm we stopped at was really amusing. They are so cute and I swear they posed for me, even clowning around with buck-teeth smiles. Quite the large crowd of them gathered around me. I am going to have to figure out how to sneak one home in my suitcase!

We had three more stops to see a variety of ruins (Q'enco, Tambomachay, and Sacsayhuaman) which involved more use of our imagination to see animal shapes, and even holding tight to each other to climb through a completely dark, narrow cave.

You really can feel the altitude here as you try to exert yourself. As we passed other tourists dying to catch another breath, Juan said we are doing better than most. Basically you move in slow motion here.

Our last stop before our final destination of Cusco was the gargantuan ruins of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman). Their stones were quite massive, perhaps 3x taller than Greg. From here we overlooked all of Cusco, which is surprisingly quite large, and is the shape of a bowl (and a puma, if you've had some good coco leaves) instead of teetering on the side of a high mountain peak, like I had imagined.

We had a very nice dinner at Limo's on a balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas - trying local treats like a pisco sour and lomo saltado. They are both delicious here.

Cusco is the capital of the Inca empire, and the "navel of the world". We are staying in the San Blas area - a quaint pedestrian barrio. I don't know how this is possible but Greg actually seems to know direction here where as I keep making wrong turns. Perhaps the effects of altitude.

Day 3 - Sacred Valley, Peru

What a day!!  Exhilarating and exhausting!  I could write a book of details from all the interesting things we experienced today.  Instead I will be as brief as possible, and highly recommend you see it for yourself - as my words and the pictures will hardly do it the justice it deserves.  It is not quite 7pm, pitch black and cold out (winter here), and we are more than ready to collapse. It was about2am by the time we got to our bed in Lima last night, and the alarm went off at 5am to catch our flight to Cusco. 

I went through a stage in my life where I somehow developed a nasty anxiety of flying. Each time I get on a plane now, I am in awe that I have surpassed that awful stage. Well, Cusco - being one of the most challenging airports to land at given its high altitude and surrounding terrain - was one I thought I'd never brave. So Greg's joke this morning about the duck tape on the engine... He is lucky I am past caring!  I am pretty sure Lima is a very long drive back to the U.S.

Our guide for the next 3 days, Juan Jose, met us at the Cusco airport - in a large passenger van all to ourselves. He is amazing and very likable. He is a tremendous source of knowledge - all in perfect English. 

We didn't spend any time in Cusco but instead left immediately for the Sacred Valley. Our intention was to acclimate at the slightly lower altitude rather than Cusco's 10,860 feet. He drove us to Ollantaytambo via Chinchero (a small town), Moray (precise agricultural circles which look like they were created by aliens) and Salineras (salt pools built by the Incas and still actively used today). They were each quite peaceful with very few other tourists.

Our favorite was Salineras. When we came out of the entrance of shops, our view was like looking at bright white snow. Greg was particularly fascinated by the process and had a slew of questions. But he can't own and farm any of the 3000 salt pools because he is not from the town of Maras. 

The homes here are very simple walls with a roof, a small door, and maybe a tiny window or two.  I stopped asking if people  lived in them because the answer was always yes.  The small size of the doors was intriguing to me. Juan said they believed big openings released warmth, so they were customarily built no bigger than necessary. 

The drive was almost more scenic than the stops- because it opened our eyes to this world of Peru. Everywhere we went had the presence of the magnificent snow-covered Andes in the background.  It is baffling to see all the dogs running and laying around here - all pets, not wild. The farm animals (we saw donkey, sheep and bulls) wander freely amongst fenceless pastures, with the occasional one tied up. In what seems like the middle of no where a single person would be walking or herding.  Many were females and they were all in the customary clothes. They carry everything on their backs (including babies) in a sling. We passed a school bus - a truck full of kids standing in its open bed.  We saw a few people plowing their field by hand with oxen.  The thing about everything we saw was that, if I can put my finger on it... These people seemed to be working so hard doing manual labor and they were very happy doing it. As Juan said, "That is the daily life and they are happy." They have what they need and want what they have. 

For a female visitor in Peru, going to the bathroom is a re-learning process.  Where you naturally want to drop the toilet paper into the toilet, you cannot do that here because the plumbing cannot handle it. It feels quite odd to wipe your hiney and then throw it in the waste can!

I'm still uncertain what effect the altitude is having on us. We haven't had any coco tea offered to us yet - unfortunately because it is quite beneficial against the effects of soroche (altitude sickness).  So instead we are trying to stay hydrated with water. I have a constant headache - exemplified by all the dirt roads we drive on - but that is normal for me all the time, so I was expecting it. However Greg has one too, which is not normal. 

We are staying the night in Ollantaytambo which is perhaps the last inhabited town in Peru to maintain the street-grid created during Inca times. Every road is uneven cobblestone and most of the streets only big enough for pedestrians. They have a gutter canal (irrigation) running down them with water rushing loudly enough for me to hear in our room. I love quaint towns and unique features like this!

Sacred Valley, Peru

Day 2 Panama Jungle

We spent the entire day on an Eco tour along the canal. Today's driver, Fernando, took us down the lush jungle road to the Gamboa public boat ramp. There were bright blue butterflies the size of birds! From there we were picked up by Captain Carl - the type of guy who tells so many jokes, you never know when he is being serious. He had 2 bathrooms for us - one between two trees and the other between two cars.

Picture Disneyland's Jungle Cruise, and you can imagine just what our day was like (minus animatronics and a headhunter). The boat and jungle shore looked just like the ride, but real. Captain Carl took us right out into the canal, right next to the container ships. A few different times he would pull up to the shore and call for ... Something. The trees started shaking like King King or Mighty Joe was going to come out (and attack us), and out pops these little, very cute monkeys! We saw 4 kinds: a howler, several capuchin, and 2 others. (Greg said I held a lemur). The capuchin monkeys jumped into the boat for bananas. One of them looked two-headed... It was carrying its baby on its back! At this point I was thinking the tour was pretty amazing, and unlike anything I have ever done.

Our next stop on the tour was Captain Carl's house boat tucked off one of the waterways of the canal. He served us a nice, hot lunch - and gave us time to swim (with the crocodiles? No thanks) or lay in hammocks. Or get a picture of a baby caiman on Greg's head.

Then the group of us got in kayaks and went up stream. Oh yeah, now it is raining (Panama hard) and thundering but it makes no difference and doesn't dampen the experience one bit. We paddled through the muck of water plants and reached a tucked away waterfall. Then I watch a man - only one - from our group swim out to the falls, climb up, and jump in. The shocker is - it's Greg! (and there's no alcohol involved). He can't hear the story back on shore about the snakes in the water!

The jungle cruise excitement ends here. I'm cold and wet, and can't dry off. No point in changing into my dry clothes because it is still raining.

However, all is good now as I write this. Very good, in fact. We arrived at the airport entirely too early but this time I ain't sleeping on the ground Nope - I am curled up warm and cozy with a drink in the Copa Lounge. Yesterday Greg was so happy with economy plus, insisting it was the only way to go - but tonight's upgrade to business class just might take the cake. (Thanks mom!)

You will have to excuse the lack of pictures - as they come from photographer Greg and his phone.

Our 1st Day: Panama

Perhaps I am a travel wimp. Right when we got to the airport gate, I heard myself tell the gate agent that we have been on quite the journey - already - and hadn't even left Sacramento yet! In all fairness, my comment was stemming from the fact that United cancelled our direct flight into Houston and put us on one that would cause us to miss our entire day in Panama. I had that fixed but then our Sacramento to LA flight was delayed 3 hours, which would cause us to miss our connecting flight, thus miss our day in Panama. To make a longer story short, I'm just going to say: we arrived on-time into Panama, and here we are! I have never taken so many connecting flights, and guess what, I don't recommend it! It made for a lot of sitting around in airports and a missed night of sleep. I don't care how dirty the ground is - yes, that was me curled up on it getting some good sleep! My good friend at home will love this part - the gate agent told us to take our FOUR carry-on bags ON the plane with us because otherwise they wouldn't make it with us. No one said a word to us on any flight. My friend loves people like us!

On our flight to Panama, Greg sat next to very friendly "Frank" who gave him about 3 hours worth of helpful tips about Panama (for tourists). He started with the Panamanian way to survive its rainy season (now) - you carry a dry shirt (sometimes two) and shoes and then you change! Sounds like sound advice but I was expecting him to say an umbrella. He also had a million other great tips - mainly on how not to get scammed- but I slept through them. Greg brought them up throughout our day, and I kept wondering, "who is Frank?". And don't think you are going to get any tips out of Greg either because if you ask him when we get back I guarantee he will say something like, "Who is Frank?"

One of the best things about Panama is its currency. Guess what, it is the U.S. dollar! They have some of their own money and use it equally - its value is 1:1 and all the coins look the same as ours. Except apparently their dollar coin which many of their own establishments won't accept - and yes someone gave us one.

When I spend all my pre-trip hours at home planning all the finite details, nothing is ever set in stone. The two smartest changes I made for Panama was 1) cancel the rental car and 2) stay on the Causeway.

The drivers here are nutso- crazy! We hired the guide/driver "My Friend Mario" to get us from the airport, tour around the city, and bring us to our hotel. He told us that less than 20% of the people here speak English (they speak Spanish). We quickly realized that having him with us as our translator (probably more appropriately, our protector) meant it didn't matter what language anyone was speaking!

If you have never been to Panama, it is an odd mix to see. It starts out looking maybe something like simple undeveloped tropical Kauai, and then suddenly you feel like you are in the ghetto. Maybe a better description is that you survived the apocalypse, and are wandering around completely dilapidated buildings that look like surely they must be condemned yet very obviously they are over-populated. Not in a sad way, just in a very shocking way. Their old town, Casco Viejo" looks like it was once as beautiful as New Orleans French Quarter, and now it looks like a ghost town. I have never seen buildings before in such need of repair. They are slowly remodeling the area though.

I almost forgot to mention the biggest shocker - the buildings that look like something out of futuristic Dubai. It's the business district/ downtown along the coast.

A highlight was driving to the top of Ancon Hill. It immediately felt like we were entirely somewhere else, but it is right in the middle of everything. It was a lush, green jungle with (some) nice homes on stilts. It afforded excellent views of the business district, the old area, and the Canal. We saw a bizarre animal running by that looked maybe like a potbelly pig with short hair and no tail. Mario said it was like a ground squirrel. Ummm - not like any of our squirrels!

I could hardly wait to visit the Panama Canal! Back home I was reading the fascinating book: The Path Between the Seas by David McCullough. (I didn't finish it; it is like a bible of tiny print and many pages.). The Miraflores Locks center had a short movie, a brief museum, and a canal viewing platform. The canal is truly a modern engineering marvel, but that point was not impressed upon me there. We didn't stay long enough - maybe over an hour, but then it closed. It was fascinating to see the massive ships squeeze into the canal lock! You view it quite close up so the ship is like a massive wall almost right in your face! I could watch for hours, maybe, but it is a slow process. The Panamax ship we saw from Ancon Hill was still in the lock when we got there. Ships other than military and cruises have to wait 2 days to enter the canal. We could see them all waiting in the Pacific Ocean from the plane.

We had dinner along the romantic causeway at Mi Ranchito outside under a palapa in the humid, tropical air - watching the lightning over the ocean off in the distance. It felt just like Hawaii!

We didn't need our nice suite on the canal with a view of the Bridge of the Americas - we weren't there to enjoy it. But collapsing in the comfy bed was dreamy after our long day(s)!

Pictures include view of downtown and canal from Ancon Hill.


Sent from my iPhone

Getting ready to go ...

Greg and I are going on a trek to discover the lost world of the Incas!  Our trip begins with an extended layover in Panama to see the great canal and its jungle.  Because we cannot fly directly into Cusco from outside of Peru, we have a quick overnight layover in Lima, Peru.  Upon arriving in Cusco, we spend the next 3 days acclimating to its high elevation while exploring the Sacred Valley.  Then we head out on our 4-day hike on the Inca Trail to our final destination: the Sanctuary of Machu Picchu – one of the new 7 wonders of the world.

Preparing for the trip is half the fun for us.  We didn’t do much to help acclimate to the 10,000+ elevation, but to train for the 28-mile hike, we kicked our gym routine up a notch and spent3 ½ months,  5-7 days  a week together doing a regime of exercises – one of which included a “test” hike to Half Dome.

Choosing to expand beyond the comforts of traveling to Europe, traveling to Peru and south of the equator is quite new for us.  As the trip quickly approaches – unfortunately compounded by the stresses of work - I find myself a bit nervous about the adventure and its unknowns.  From high school, we remember just enough Spanish to get us into trouble instead of out of it.  Speaking Spanish would help us avoid trouble, like falling victim to the many scams pulled on tourists.  Between the high altitude and different food bacteria, I wonder if we will succumb to the statistic of 50% of tourists who get sick.  Greg and I worry how much of the Inca Trail his knees can tolerate.  Lastly, there’s the unease of leaving our children – though they are in very good hands while we are gone.

Modeling after backpackers – even though the porters carry our gear - we aren’t bringing any excess luggage.  Immediately after he finished packing, Greg sensed something was wrong … surely he forgot something if all of his clothing fit into 2 travel cubes!  We won’t be winning any fashion contests, but we will be comfortable.  And with the extra layers of clothing I packed, we will <hopefully> be warm during the evenings when the temperature falls below freezing!  Our biggest extra is a large backpack full of school supplies for the adorable Peruvian children.

Our flight leaves Sacramento at 8:15pm tonight!