Day 10 - Last Day: Lima

Today began our journey home. We had half the day in Cusco and then flew back to Lima. 

We had a casual morning enjoying the plaza, and wandering around for the last few gifts. 

Then we were touristo stupido. We let our airport taxi driver give us a counterfeit 10 soles.  Greg could tell immediately it felt different and I noticed it was missing the usual picture of Machu Picchu - but we were focused on checking in to our flight. We didn't actually realize it was a counterfeit until we tried to pay the Lima taxi with it!  Greg is more upset with the fact that we fell for the scam than for the amount we lost -$4. We also tipped that asshole (it is uncommon to tip taxis in Peru)!

We never take taxis, anywhere, and today we took 3 more.  Our B&B had already taught us how to get the best rate on a taxi. If you get one in the airport, you have to pay a fixed price. So instead you catch one of the taxis leaving the airport - the ones who just dropped someone off. We paid almost 1/3 this way - not that they didn't try to get the higher fare first!

We tried to make the best out of our Lima layover -  most of it we would be sleeping.  We took a taxi to Kennedy Park in Miraflores.  I had read it is full of live entertainment - but it wasn't today. Half of it was blocked off. The other part had a tiny artisan market, a playground, and scattered snack vendors. It also had at least 20 very tame cats laying around... The dogs here are on leashes. 

We couldn't get our bearings on the tiny map we had. The street names on the map didn't match the actual street names - not sure why?  

We enjoyed a malto Cusquino at a cafe along the park, grabbed some sandwiches to go, and took them to the malecon - an easy walk from Kennedy Park. It was the usual cloud layer in Lima so there was no sunset. We walked through Lover's Park, then called it a day. We'd be leaving for the airport again at 2:15am. 

I have to admit we still haven't nailed down the best way to get currency when we travel, but this trip was particularly bad. One of the ATM limits was 400 soles ($160) which doesn't go far!  And then NO ONE would take big bills and we didn't know how to get change. Even Starbucks wanted exact change. We tried to pay the taxi 50 soles ($20) and he wouldn't take it!

Anyway, it is all behind us now. We had a truly unforgettable trip, and can't wait to get back to our kids and the comforts of home!

Day 9 - Machu Picchu

Wow! Today was pure bliss. Like complete happiness! It is one thing to visit Machu Picchu, and something completely more meaningful to reach it after 4 hard, relentless, enduring, delightful, wonderful days! If you enjoy the outdoors and exercise, I highly recommend this hike!

Our day started at 3:30am with the knock on our tent. It rained most of last night but stopped by this time. It was a rush to beat the other 500 trekkers to the check in point, hardly a 5 minute walk away. We beat about 450 of them, just missed the benches, and sat in the dirt for the next 1 1/2 hours until the check point opened (it is the only way to keep people out of Machu Picchu while it is closed). As miserable as this might sound, it was not one bit! Then the gates opened, and the adrenaline started pumping. Knowing we were an hour away from the highlight of our trip - we would have run there had there not been 50 people ahead of us slowing us down!

Gasping for breath, we reached the rewarding Sun Gate after 50 minutes. It is the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca Trail but it is quite high up and still 30 minutes away from the sanctuary.

At the guard house we stopped to take the classic Machu Picchu picture (more like 20+ pictures). It is a view you will never forget.

Then we actually had to leave - the exit/entrance wasn't far - to have our 2nd breakfast, use a REAL toilet (oh - the joy of sitting down to pee!), and get our entrance ticket stamped so we could officially go inside.

Next our guide gave us a 2-hour tour of the site. Greg and I got a kick out of seeing THE tree in Machu Picchu (the tree in every photo) because we told Kate we would sit under it... We didn't know the entire field is roped off - off limits.

Sunday is free local day, and we noticed some in their traditional dress. I assumed they were the usual dress-up people who are looking for a quick tourist buck, but these were the real thing. They were the the shawmen/women from their town, who had travelled far to come to this sacred place. They made for some nice photos.

At 10am Greg and I had a date with Huayna Picchu mountain - to climb to the top of it. It is the tall mountain you always see in every picture of Machu Picchu; the Inca used it for special sacred ceremonies. Only 400 people are allowed to climb it a day, so you need to reserve your time in advance. The trail is exceptionally steep, and at times the stairs are like climbing a ladder. At the top, we hung our feet over the edge, popped the cork on the bottle of Gatorade I'd been carrying since early the second day, and took in the beauty of the sanctuary of Machu Picchu. I can't believe we are actually here!

Just as we got down off Huayna Picchu mountain, and found our way through the maze of ruins to the bus down to Aguas Calientes, it started to rain. In town we met back up with the rest of our group at the bar "Machu Pisco". There we found out that a couple of our trek mates got engaged at Machu Picchu!

The train ride back on Peru Rail was like riding through a greenhouse. The flora was green, lush and more what I was expecting from a jungle. SAS graciously upgraded our tickets to the fancy vista dome train, including meal service; not the Orient Express but it was quite the luxury after 4 days on the trail!

In Cusco we had to say goodbye to our new friends. When we met on the 1st day, and took our "family" photo at the start of the trail, I disliked the loose use of the word family. These strangers are not my family. I also secretly wished I was with a group of Americans rather than foreigners from Israel, Belgium, and the UK. So quite to my surprise, we very much enjoyed our time with these nice couples, and the fact that they were not Americans only enrichened our experience!

Tonight, in Cusco, as a treat we are staying in a nice room that opens onto the Plaza de Armas. We are exhausted!

Day 8 - The Unforgetable Inca Trail

The third morning started with rain - and happy 60th (!) birthday wishes to one of our porters. Greg isn't sleeping well - in a tent on a thin sleeping mat. He is thinking of stealing my mat from me. I'm getting some of the best sleep I have had in weeks. Greg said, "I know, you were snoring along with the porters!". They sleep all together in the dining tent next to us.

The rain stopped by the time we got started - early even though we didn't have far to go, and were done hiking for the day by lunch. It was something like 2 hours to the summit, and then 2 hours down to camp. We were in fog for more than 1/2 the morning.

The summit was nothing special since we could only see fog. It was quite drab, barren surroundings. I had to use the bano which was the worst yet - so bad everyone took a look and instead went to find a bush. It was a hole in the ground with no water to wash away the feces that missed the hole. So, as it turns out, this was our camping spot for the night!! And quite possibly the worst thing about this place is that it is over 4 hours from Machu Picchu, which means on the next morning, we would have to leave at 2am! But our guide didn't tell me any if this until we left it behind us, and instead went to commandeer space at camp Winay Wayna. If you ever make this trek, make sure you are staying at Winay Wayna on your 3rd night!! It was my only criteria when booking the trek, but obviously SAS messed up somewhere. Apparently while they were waiting to get more than 9 people on our trek, they lost the gamble and the camp filled up. There are several camps along the trek - not just one place for each night. It is the job of the trekking company to book the camps.

Today was labeled "unforgettable". It was! Not in the way I imagined though, but gorgeous all the same. I pictured something more exotic in the jungle. But with the fog and steep 2,000+ steps down (all original Inca trail), there wasn't much to look at; you had to focus very carefully on each step. Even though there was no challenge to the lungs today, you really needed to take it slow because of sore legs and feet but especially so you stop often to enjoy the beauty. I was always looking in every direction. In fact at one of the ruins, something caused me to look far to the side of me, and I spotted a few llama that we all stopped to watch and photo for a bit. The back drop of the photos was Machu Picchu mountain. We can see it now, and even people walking along the top of it, but the actual ruins are still out if view - our reward for tomorrow.

After lunch it was time to shower - another adventure. Free cold water for anyone daring enough! That would be me, and not Greg; he still stinks. The very cold water pours out an open spout like a hose (no shower head). At least it is warm today ~ 75 degrees. And I am clean!

There was supposed to be beer waiting at this camp - they had a bar and a store - but the government shut it down this year. Instead our cook "cooked" us a cake for happy hour; it is amazing what he can create in his camping kitchen!

The view out our tent is of the mountains and valley below. It is absolutely beautiful. The view to our left is Machu Picchu mountain. I could get used to this!

Day 7 - Dead Woman's Peak

We have to find a shirt that says "I survived Dead Woman's Peak"! It is the hardest and highest (13,776 ft) part of the trail. We left camp this morning at 6:30 and hiked straight up stair rocks for 3 hours. It is like walking Yosemite's Mist trail but for a really really long time and at a much much higher altitude. We celebrated our accomplishment at the top with tea and cheese sandwiches. Along the way there were more llama, and spectacular views of several mountains and valleys.

The rest of the day was long with steep downhills and even some more uphill. We reached our 2nd and last high summit ~3pm. After that we hiked through a foggy cloud forest - no views past 20 feet.

Greg was being esp. careful today because he accidentally got dehydrated yesterday, which really takes a toll on your body at this altitude. Last night he had tingling fingers and was uncontrollably shivering. I was ready to turn back but he woke up feeling great and ready to go! He had feared the downhills would be brutal on his knees but he didn't feel them at all.

We arrived at camp at 5:30 pm. No locals here selling Cusquino, and earlier Greg paid $5 for his Gatorade which would cost $1.50 in Cusco. We are definitely off the beaten path here! Even though it was a long, hard day, I really enjoyed it.

No pictures (from the phone) today.

Day 6 - Inca Trail Day 1

The first part of the day was not exciting. First, it started too early and involved a long bus ride. We left Cusco at 5:30 am. We had several hours to drive to the start of the trail, called Kilometer 82. We stopped for breakfast (eggs) and supplies right outside Ollantaytambo. Then we had another ~45 minute ride on a dirt road. When we got to the starting point, they weighed our bags that the porters carry. Unfortunately their scale was calibrated higher than the hotel scales so everyone had to take 2kg out and carry it themselves.

The Inca Trail starts out dry with cactus along the Urubumba River. It was fairly easy but they took us slow and had us break often. Locals sell chicha (homemade corn beer) along the way so we had a sip. Probably an acquired taste! Mostly tasted like fermentation. We bought Gatorade instead.

We had to reserve our spot for the hike over 5 months in advance. Only 500 people are allowed to start the trail each day - but at least half of that amount are necessary porters, guides and cooks.

The porters have only one speed - they are always running. They run passed us with ~80 pounds on their backs (stools, propane tanks, tents, etc - topped off with dozens of eggs). They run because they are in a hurry to get to the next stop and set up all the equipment.

By the time we arrived at the lunch location, the porters had set up a cooking tent, a dining tent (table with tablecloth, chairs, etc) and a full-on hearty lunch was ready and waiting. They put 6 different dishes in front of us, including soup. After lunch Greg and I found an open field and took a siesta.

The next part of the trail got better - we had turned into a different valley, and this one was greener. They let us go at our own pace so we weren't on each others heels. Instead of having us stop at the normal overnight campground, they had us get a start on tomorrow's "challenge". We hiked for 90 minutes straight up. At one point 3 llama came charging down the trail towards me. It definitely deserved a "holy shit" outloud! They stopped abruptly when they saw me - they are gentle animals. It was pretty cool.

When we got to the stopping place for the day, the porters had our tents set up and waiting. A local lady trekked up to us with a pack of drinks on her back. She was selling Cusquino beer - which, even warm, tasted very good. We watched the sun go down over the valley and mountains.

Next they served us tea, cookies and popcorn. And a bit later came a delicious dinner. The food is all very good!

The camp does have a bathroom -- lovely holes in the ground. I think it is going to take me a while to master that technique!

Even though it isn't 8pm yet, everyone goes to bed after dinner. It is supposed to get below freezing tonight.

You can definitely feel the altitude up here. The tradition to help with the altitude is to suck on a wad of coco leaves - kind of like chewing tobacco. I'm thinking that is what got me up that hill so easily!

Day 5 - Cusco

Today's pace was much slower, which is a good thing because Greg is tired.  After a later start and finding a Starbucks in the Plaza de Armas, Juan took us for a walking tour of Cusco. 

On the main street are paid workers in traditional dress and a plastic carnival mask holding a sign: respect the crosswalks - their way of discouraging jaywalking. The cars have the right of way, and don't care about you. Suddenly Juan jumped into the path of an oncoming bus to swoop up a young boy ~3 who was not moving off the street quickly enough (and mama was oblivious). 

After walking passed the stone with 12 edges, and touring Qorikancha (Inca's huge gold religious center/ Temple of the Sun), we went to the San Pedro market. We saw so many strange sights!  Of course the most unusual was the llama fetus,  but they also had breads, fish (piles of fish eggs), many varieties of potatoes, fresh produce, flowers, chicha (corn beer), and fresh blended fruit smoothies. Since we couldn't barter down the price of the pig's head, our only purchase was bags of coco leaves for the trail tomorrow.  

Next Juan took us to the Handicraft Center (large souvenir market), where we bid each other our "hasta la vista" since we cannot say goodbye. It was actually a huge downer; he was just amazing these past few days!

After making more purchases than we have room for, we enjoyed a late lunch on the patio of Pachapapa on the San Blas square. Unfortunately we could not order the guinea pig, an Andean delicacy, because they need 24 hour notice.  Darn.  So we had to settle for pizza and calzone from the adobe  oven. 

It is amazing how quickly our bodies produce more red blood cells to help us acclimate to this high altitude!  Each time we climb the hill to our hotel, it is noticeably easier and easier. 

Tonight we checked into tomorrow's 4 day 3 night Inca Trail tour and found out we are the oldest ones in a group of nine. I am excluding the 59 year old as the outlier. The rest are in their 20s and from Israel, Belgium and the UK.  We will be hiking as high as 13,776 feet, and then down to Machu Picchu.  They described the 1st day as easy, the 2nd as challenging, the 3rd as unforgettable, and the last as unique.

We just spent the last hour weighing our bags, taking stuff out, and weighing them again.  We hired a porter to carry 6kg (each) for us, which turns out to be a sleeping bag and mat plus a change of clothes. The rest of or supplies we have to carry in  our daypack. Mine weighs about 12 pounds - ugh. I can't get any lighter - that is seriously all basics, except for my camera which I refuse to give up!  Greg's bag is 10 pounds. 

Tomorrow is an early morning - our bus picks us up at 5:15pm.  We "go dark" for the next three nights... The Inca didn't have wi-fi on the trail!

Hasta la vista!

Day 4 - Sacred Valley to Cusco

This morning I went out exploring the little town of Ollantaytambo at 6:00 am just after the sun came up. It was an fun adventure to wander through the maze of streets on a scavenger hunt for photographic treasures. I was surprised at the amount of cars and locals out and about in this very small town! And these people bustle around even faster than I do!

We met Juan and started with a tour of the town's ruins. We all know what incredible builders the Inca were, but when you look first-hand at the rocks they carved, it really is mind boggling! It is one thing to carve - by hand - a straight edge or a curved edge, but it is the mirrored aligning curvature, fitting multiple pieces together, that is so impressive! And something you don't see in these complete walls is the hidden parts that were cut like Lego pieces to fit together and remain intact for all these years.

The ruins are a climb up through the pyramid of terraces, and allow a great view of the town. We were looking across towards the grainery on the opposing hill, and talking about the face formation on the rock. For the life of him, Greg could not see a face. Juan joked that his coco tea hadn't kicked in, and he told us the legend of the face. Just as he was finishing, Greg's coco set in - and he interrupted excitedly, "I see it!" I couldn't stop laughing. It just seemed so child-like, which is so unlike Greg!

On our way out of town, we stopped at a small school for girls to donate a little suitcase full of supplies we brought (because it was something I felt strongly about doing). The girls could not afford to commute the long distance (from the surrounding hills) to school each day, so this was a home as well. They were ages 14-16, and quite shy and giggly.

We drove across the Valley to the town of Pisac. They are known for their large market as well as their ruins. We bought few souvenirs and a delicious lunch. I tried to haggle a little but my guilt - they need this money - always won them the higher price.

The alpaca and llama farm we stopped at was really amusing. They are so cute and I swear they posed for me, even clowning around with buck-teeth smiles. Quite the large crowd of them gathered around me. I am going to have to figure out how to sneak one home in my suitcase!

We had three more stops to see a variety of ruins (Q'enco, Tambomachay, and Sacsayhuaman) which involved more use of our imagination to see animal shapes, and even holding tight to each other to climb through a completely dark, narrow cave.

You really can feel the altitude here as you try to exert yourself. As we passed other tourists dying to catch another breath, Juan said we are doing better than most. Basically you move in slow motion here.

Our last stop before our final destination of Cusco was the gargantuan ruins of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman). Their stones were quite massive, perhaps 3x taller than Greg. From here we overlooked all of Cusco, which is surprisingly quite large, and is the shape of a bowl (and a puma, if you've had some good coco leaves) instead of teetering on the side of a high mountain peak, like I had imagined.

We had a very nice dinner at Limo's on a balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas - trying local treats like a pisco sour and lomo saltado. They are both delicious here.

Cusco is the capital of the Inca empire, and the "navel of the world". We are staying in the San Blas area - a quaint pedestrian barrio. I don't know how this is possible but Greg actually seems to know direction here where as I keep making wrong turns. Perhaps the effects of altitude.