Day 6 - Inca Trail Day 1

The first part of the day was not exciting. First, it started too early and involved a long bus ride. We left Cusco at 5:30 am. We had several hours to drive to the start of the trail, called Kilometer 82. We stopped for breakfast (eggs) and supplies right outside Ollantaytambo. Then we had another ~45 minute ride on a dirt road. When we got to the starting point, they weighed our bags that the porters carry. Unfortunately their scale was calibrated higher than the hotel scales so everyone had to take 2kg out and carry it themselves.

The Inca Trail starts out dry with cactus along the Urubumba River. It was fairly easy but they took us slow and had us break often. Locals sell chicha (homemade corn beer) along the way so we had a sip. Probably an acquired taste! Mostly tasted like fermentation. We bought Gatorade instead.

We had to reserve our spot for the hike over 5 months in advance. Only 500 people are allowed to start the trail each day - but at least half of that amount are necessary porters, guides and cooks.

The porters have only one speed - they are always running. They run passed us with ~80 pounds on their backs (stools, propane tanks, tents, etc - topped off with dozens of eggs). They run because they are in a hurry to get to the next stop and set up all the equipment.

By the time we arrived at the lunch location, the porters had set up a cooking tent, a dining tent (table with tablecloth, chairs, etc) and a full-on hearty lunch was ready and waiting. They put 6 different dishes in front of us, including soup. After lunch Greg and I found an open field and took a siesta.

The next part of the trail got better - we had turned into a different valley, and this one was greener. They let us go at our own pace so we weren't on each others heels. Instead of having us stop at the normal overnight campground, they had us get a start on tomorrow's "challenge". We hiked for 90 minutes straight up. At one point 3 llama came charging down the trail towards me. It definitely deserved a "holy shit" outloud! They stopped abruptly when they saw me - they are gentle animals. It was pretty cool.

When we got to the stopping place for the day, the porters had our tents set up and waiting. A local lady trekked up to us with a pack of drinks on her back. She was selling Cusquino beer - which, even warm, tasted very good. We watched the sun go down over the valley and mountains.

Next they served us tea, cookies and popcorn. And a bit later came a delicious dinner. The food is all very good!

The camp does have a bathroom -- lovely holes in the ground. I think it is going to take me a while to master that technique!

Even though it isn't 8pm yet, everyone goes to bed after dinner. It is supposed to get below freezing tonight.

You can definitely feel the altitude up here. The tradition to help with the altitude is to suck on a wad of coco leaves - kind of like chewing tobacco. I'm thinking that is what got me up that hill so easily!