Day 8 - The Unforgetable Inca Trail

The third morning started with rain - and happy 60th (!) birthday wishes to one of our porters. Greg isn't sleeping well - in a tent on a thin sleeping mat. He is thinking of stealing my mat from me. I'm getting some of the best sleep I have had in weeks. Greg said, "I know, you were snoring along with the porters!". They sleep all together in the dining tent next to us.

The rain stopped by the time we got started - early even though we didn't have far to go, and were done hiking for the day by lunch. It was something like 2 hours to the summit, and then 2 hours down to camp. We were in fog for more than 1/2 the morning.

The summit was nothing special since we could only see fog. It was quite drab, barren surroundings. I had to use the bano which was the worst yet - so bad everyone took a look and instead went to find a bush. It was a hole in the ground with no water to wash away the feces that missed the hole. So, as it turns out, this was our camping spot for the night!! And quite possibly the worst thing about this place is that it is over 4 hours from Machu Picchu, which means on the next morning, we would have to leave at 2am! But our guide didn't tell me any if this until we left it behind us, and instead went to commandeer space at camp Winay Wayna. If you ever make this trek, make sure you are staying at Winay Wayna on your 3rd night!! It was my only criteria when booking the trek, but obviously SAS messed up somewhere. Apparently while they were waiting to get more than 9 people on our trek, they lost the gamble and the camp filled up. There are several camps along the trek - not just one place for each night. It is the job of the trekking company to book the camps.

Today was labeled "unforgettable". It was! Not in the way I imagined though, but gorgeous all the same. I pictured something more exotic in the jungle. But with the fog and steep 2,000+ steps down (all original Inca trail), there wasn't much to look at; you had to focus very carefully on each step. Even though there was no challenge to the lungs today, you really needed to take it slow because of sore legs and feet but especially so you stop often to enjoy the beauty. I was always looking in every direction. In fact at one of the ruins, something caused me to look far to the side of me, and I spotted a few llama that we all stopped to watch and photo for a bit. The back drop of the photos was Machu Picchu mountain. We can see it now, and even people walking along the top of it, but the actual ruins are still out if view - our reward for tomorrow.

After lunch it was time to shower - another adventure. Free cold water for anyone daring enough! That would be me, and not Greg; he still stinks. The very cold water pours out an open spout like a hose (no shower head). At least it is warm today ~ 75 degrees. And I am clean!

There was supposed to be beer waiting at this camp - they had a bar and a store - but the government shut it down this year. Instead our cook "cooked" us a cake for happy hour; it is amazing what he can create in his camping kitchen!

The view out our tent is of the mountains and valley below. It is absolutely beautiful. The view to our left is Machu Picchu mountain. I could get used to this!

Day 7 - Dead Woman's Peak

We have to find a shirt that says "I survived Dead Woman's Peak"! It is the hardest and highest (13,776 ft) part of the trail. We left camp this morning at 6:30 and hiked straight up stair rocks for 3 hours. It is like walking Yosemite's Mist trail but for a really really long time and at a much much higher altitude. We celebrated our accomplishment at the top with tea and cheese sandwiches. Along the way there were more llama, and spectacular views of several mountains and valleys.

The rest of the day was long with steep downhills and even some more uphill. We reached our 2nd and last high summit ~3pm. After that we hiked through a foggy cloud forest - no views past 20 feet.

Greg was being esp. careful today because he accidentally got dehydrated yesterday, which really takes a toll on your body at this altitude. Last night he had tingling fingers and was uncontrollably shivering. I was ready to turn back but he woke up feeling great and ready to go! He had feared the downhills would be brutal on his knees but he didn't feel them at all.

We arrived at camp at 5:30 pm. No locals here selling Cusquino, and earlier Greg paid $5 for his Gatorade which would cost $1.50 in Cusco. We are definitely off the beaten path here! Even though it was a long, hard day, I really enjoyed it.

No pictures (from the phone) today.

Day 6 - Inca Trail Day 1

The first part of the day was not exciting. First, it started too early and involved a long bus ride. We left Cusco at 5:30 am. We had several hours to drive to the start of the trail, called Kilometer 82. We stopped for breakfast (eggs) and supplies right outside Ollantaytambo. Then we had another ~45 minute ride on a dirt road. When we got to the starting point, they weighed our bags that the porters carry. Unfortunately their scale was calibrated higher than the hotel scales so everyone had to take 2kg out and carry it themselves.

The Inca Trail starts out dry with cactus along the Urubumba River. It was fairly easy but they took us slow and had us break often. Locals sell chicha (homemade corn beer) along the way so we had a sip. Probably an acquired taste! Mostly tasted like fermentation. We bought Gatorade instead.

We had to reserve our spot for the hike over 5 months in advance. Only 500 people are allowed to start the trail each day - but at least half of that amount are necessary porters, guides and cooks.

The porters have only one speed - they are always running. They run passed us with ~80 pounds on their backs (stools, propane tanks, tents, etc - topped off with dozens of eggs). They run because they are in a hurry to get to the next stop and set up all the equipment.

By the time we arrived at the lunch location, the porters had set up a cooking tent, a dining tent (table with tablecloth, chairs, etc) and a full-on hearty lunch was ready and waiting. They put 6 different dishes in front of us, including soup. After lunch Greg and I found an open field and took a siesta.

The next part of the trail got better - we had turned into a different valley, and this one was greener. They let us go at our own pace so we weren't on each others heels. Instead of having us stop at the normal overnight campground, they had us get a start on tomorrow's "challenge". We hiked for 90 minutes straight up. At one point 3 llama came charging down the trail towards me. It definitely deserved a "holy shit" outloud! They stopped abruptly when they saw me - they are gentle animals. It was pretty cool.

When we got to the stopping place for the day, the porters had our tents set up and waiting. A local lady trekked up to us with a pack of drinks on her back. She was selling Cusquino beer - which, even warm, tasted very good. We watched the sun go down over the valley and mountains.

Next they served us tea, cookies and popcorn. And a bit later came a delicious dinner. The food is all very good!

The camp does have a bathroom -- lovely holes in the ground. I think it is going to take me a while to master that technique!

Even though it isn't 8pm yet, everyone goes to bed after dinner. It is supposed to get below freezing tonight.

You can definitely feel the altitude up here. The tradition to help with the altitude is to suck on a wad of coco leaves - kind of like chewing tobacco. I'm thinking that is what got me up that hill so easily!

Day 5 - Cusco

Today's pace was much slower, which is a good thing because Greg is tired.  After a later start and finding a Starbucks in the Plaza de Armas, Juan took us for a walking tour of Cusco. 

On the main street are paid workers in traditional dress and a plastic carnival mask holding a sign: respect the crosswalks - their way of discouraging jaywalking. The cars have the right of way, and don't care about you. Suddenly Juan jumped into the path of an oncoming bus to swoop up a young boy ~3 who was not moving off the street quickly enough (and mama was oblivious). 

After walking passed the stone with 12 edges, and touring Qorikancha (Inca's huge gold religious center/ Temple of the Sun), we went to the San Pedro market. We saw so many strange sights!  Of course the most unusual was the llama fetus,  but they also had breads, fish (piles of fish eggs), many varieties of potatoes, fresh produce, flowers, chicha (corn beer), and fresh blended fruit smoothies. Since we couldn't barter down the price of the pig's head, our only purchase was bags of coco leaves for the trail tomorrow.  

Next Juan took us to the Handicraft Center (large souvenir market), where we bid each other our "hasta la vista" since we cannot say goodbye. It was actually a huge downer; he was just amazing these past few days!

After making more purchases than we have room for, we enjoyed a late lunch on the patio of Pachapapa on the San Blas square. Unfortunately we could not order the guinea pig, an Andean delicacy, because they need 24 hour notice.  Darn.  So we had to settle for pizza and calzone from the adobe  oven. 

It is amazing how quickly our bodies produce more red blood cells to help us acclimate to this high altitude!  Each time we climb the hill to our hotel, it is noticeably easier and easier. 

Tonight we checked into tomorrow's 4 day 3 night Inca Trail tour and found out we are the oldest ones in a group of nine. I am excluding the 59 year old as the outlier. The rest are in their 20s and from Israel, Belgium and the UK.  We will be hiking as high as 13,776 feet, and then down to Machu Picchu.  They described the 1st day as easy, the 2nd as challenging, the 3rd as unforgettable, and the last as unique.

We just spent the last hour weighing our bags, taking stuff out, and weighing them again.  We hired a porter to carry 6kg (each) for us, which turns out to be a sleeping bag and mat plus a change of clothes. The rest of or supplies we have to carry in  our daypack. Mine weighs about 12 pounds - ugh. I can't get any lighter - that is seriously all basics, except for my camera which I refuse to give up!  Greg's bag is 10 pounds. 

Tomorrow is an early morning - our bus picks us up at 5:15pm.  We "go dark" for the next three nights... The Inca didn't have wi-fi on the trail!

Hasta la vista!

Day 4 - Sacred Valley to Cusco

This morning I went out exploring the little town of Ollantaytambo at 6:00 am just after the sun came up. It was an fun adventure to wander through the maze of streets on a scavenger hunt for photographic treasures. I was surprised at the amount of cars and locals out and about in this very small town! And these people bustle around even faster than I do!

We met Juan and started with a tour of the town's ruins. We all know what incredible builders the Inca were, but when you look first-hand at the rocks they carved, it really is mind boggling! It is one thing to carve - by hand - a straight edge or a curved edge, but it is the mirrored aligning curvature, fitting multiple pieces together, that is so impressive! And something you don't see in these complete walls is the hidden parts that were cut like Lego pieces to fit together and remain intact for all these years.

The ruins are a climb up through the pyramid of terraces, and allow a great view of the town. We were looking across towards the grainery on the opposing hill, and talking about the face formation on the rock. For the life of him, Greg could not see a face. Juan joked that his coco tea hadn't kicked in, and he told us the legend of the face. Just as he was finishing, Greg's coco set in - and he interrupted excitedly, "I see it!" I couldn't stop laughing. It just seemed so child-like, which is so unlike Greg!

On our way out of town, we stopped at a small school for girls to donate a little suitcase full of supplies we brought (because it was something I felt strongly about doing). The girls could not afford to commute the long distance (from the surrounding hills) to school each day, so this was a home as well. They were ages 14-16, and quite shy and giggly.

We drove across the Valley to the town of Pisac. They are known for their large market as well as their ruins. We bought few souvenirs and a delicious lunch. I tried to haggle a little but my guilt - they need this money - always won them the higher price.

The alpaca and llama farm we stopped at was really amusing. They are so cute and I swear they posed for me, even clowning around with buck-teeth smiles. Quite the large crowd of them gathered around me. I am going to have to figure out how to sneak one home in my suitcase!

We had three more stops to see a variety of ruins (Q'enco, Tambomachay, and Sacsayhuaman) which involved more use of our imagination to see animal shapes, and even holding tight to each other to climb through a completely dark, narrow cave.

You really can feel the altitude here as you try to exert yourself. As we passed other tourists dying to catch another breath, Juan said we are doing better than most. Basically you move in slow motion here.

Our last stop before our final destination of Cusco was the gargantuan ruins of Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman). Their stones were quite massive, perhaps 3x taller than Greg. From here we overlooked all of Cusco, which is surprisingly quite large, and is the shape of a bowl (and a puma, if you've had some good coco leaves) instead of teetering on the side of a high mountain peak, like I had imagined.

We had a very nice dinner at Limo's on a balcony overlooking the Plaza de Armas - trying local treats like a pisco sour and lomo saltado. They are both delicious here.

Cusco is the capital of the Inca empire, and the "navel of the world". We are staying in the San Blas area - a quaint pedestrian barrio. I don't know how this is possible but Greg actually seems to know direction here where as I keep making wrong turns. Perhaps the effects of altitude.

Day 3 - Sacred Valley, Peru

What a day!!  Exhilarating and exhausting!  I could write a book of details from all the interesting things we experienced today.  Instead I will be as brief as possible, and highly recommend you see it for yourself - as my words and the pictures will hardly do it the justice it deserves.  It is not quite 7pm, pitch black and cold out (winter here), and we are more than ready to collapse. It was about2am by the time we got to our bed in Lima last night, and the alarm went off at 5am to catch our flight to Cusco. 

I went through a stage in my life where I somehow developed a nasty anxiety of flying. Each time I get on a plane now, I am in awe that I have surpassed that awful stage. Well, Cusco - being one of the most challenging airports to land at given its high altitude and surrounding terrain - was one I thought I'd never brave. So Greg's joke this morning about the duck tape on the engine... He is lucky I am past caring!  I am pretty sure Lima is a very long drive back to the U.S.

Our guide for the next 3 days, Juan Jose, met us at the Cusco airport - in a large passenger van all to ourselves. He is amazing and very likable. He is a tremendous source of knowledge - all in perfect English. 

We didn't spend any time in Cusco but instead left immediately for the Sacred Valley. Our intention was to acclimate at the slightly lower altitude rather than Cusco's 10,860 feet. He drove us to Ollantaytambo via Chinchero (a small town), Moray (precise agricultural circles which look like they were created by aliens) and Salineras (salt pools built by the Incas and still actively used today). They were each quite peaceful with very few other tourists.

Our favorite was Salineras. When we came out of the entrance of shops, our view was like looking at bright white snow. Greg was particularly fascinated by the process and had a slew of questions. But he can't own and farm any of the 3000 salt pools because he is not from the town of Maras. 

The homes here are very simple walls with a roof, a small door, and maybe a tiny window or two.  I stopped asking if people  lived in them because the answer was always yes.  The small size of the doors was intriguing to me. Juan said they believed big openings released warmth, so they were customarily built no bigger than necessary. 

The drive was almost more scenic than the stops- because it opened our eyes to this world of Peru. Everywhere we went had the presence of the magnificent snow-covered Andes in the background.  It is baffling to see all the dogs running and laying around here - all pets, not wild. The farm animals (we saw donkey, sheep and bulls) wander freely amongst fenceless pastures, with the occasional one tied up. In what seems like the middle of no where a single person would be walking or herding.  Many were females and they were all in the customary clothes. They carry everything on their backs (including babies) in a sling. We passed a school bus - a truck full of kids standing in its open bed.  We saw a few people plowing their field by hand with oxen.  The thing about everything we saw was that, if I can put my finger on it... These people seemed to be working so hard doing manual labor and they were very happy doing it. As Juan said, "That is the daily life and they are happy." They have what they need and want what they have. 

For a female visitor in Peru, going to the bathroom is a re-learning process.  Where you naturally want to drop the toilet paper into the toilet, you cannot do that here because the plumbing cannot handle it. It feels quite odd to wipe your hiney and then throw it in the waste can!

I'm still uncertain what effect the altitude is having on us. We haven't had any coco tea offered to us yet - unfortunately because it is quite beneficial against the effects of soroche (altitude sickness).  So instead we are trying to stay hydrated with water. I have a constant headache - exemplified by all the dirt roads we drive on - but that is normal for me all the time, so I was expecting it. However Greg has one too, which is not normal. 

We are staying the night in Ollantaytambo which is perhaps the last inhabited town in Peru to maintain the street-grid created during Inca times. Every road is uneven cobblestone and most of the streets only big enough for pedestrians. They have a gutter canal (irrigation) running down them with water rushing loudly enough for me to hear in our room. I love quaint towns and unique features like this!

Sacred Valley, Peru