Review of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu - 4D3N

If you love the outdoors and exercise, I highly recommend this trek!  It is not easy which makes the rewards even more amazing!  It is the trip of a lifetime!

My husband and I are 41. We trained for this hike. I work out 3-4 times per week regardless but I ramped it up to much harder workouts, and he basically started from scratch - for 4 months. The only altitude practice we got was hiking Half Dome. 

I recommend this trek for almost any age!  No matter what your heart will pound and you will be out of breath at that altitude.  The key is to go slow. The altitude has unpredictable effects, but you feel it no matter what!  For 20 somethings, it is easiest. For 30 somethings, you might have to work at it. Past that, you really should train!  Over 50 - it depends on the person.  We had a 60 year old lady on our hike. I do not think she trained at all. She said she runs all day on her nursing job. She was crushed when the 1st day, the "easy" day was so hard for her. The guide and porters carried all of her equipment and daypack (for a fee) -- but she made it!  

Rent as much equipment as you can, and hire a porter to carry 9kg (the sleeping bag and sleeping pad alone are 4kg). When the equipment is rented, you do not need to worry about it on the last day - nor do you need to drag it all over Peru. Our company had nice equipment; the sleeping bag was very warm and had a liner. 

Take your time on the hike. If you hurry, you will miss details. There is no reason to get there fast because you always have to wait for your group to catch up, and there is nothing to do at camp - the trail is better. I ended up carrying both daypacks = 22 pounds. The weight didn't bother me because I went slowly. 

I was worried about freezing when the sun went down. I am always freezing (below 70 degrees Fahrenheit). But I was not cold at night, or ever. I never even wore my jacket. Layers are the key!  My layers:  a sports bra, a t-shirt, a long sleeve light weight shirt, a fleece, a hat, gloves and a thick rain jacket. It is warm in the dining tent and the sleeping bag. 

No matter what bring hiking boots. The trail is completely uneven at all times and slippery even when it is dry. 

We had no idea we should bring a garbage bag so we bought one along the way. To keep it dry in case of rain, you put all your stuff in it, including sleeping bag - inside the duffle that the porters carry. 

You can buy drinks (beer, water and gatorade 9-12 soles each) at several places on the first day, and one place on the 2nd morning. That is all. The bar and store at the last night were shut down this year. The company provides plenty of water for the trail (days 2-4) and drinks during meals. Make sure you drink plenty of liquids or the effects of the high altitude will be exaggerated. 

The bugs were not bad at all - for us. We brought 95% deet. (Careful of aerosol cans because airlines like Star Peru do not allow it - not even in your checked luggage.) We met some guys who did the Salcantay trail and they were covered with bites!!

The Quechua way is to share. Plan to share with the porters - coca leaves, bug spray, etc. 

Buy coca leaves!  They seem to be the wonder "drug". I'm not sure how exactly I was affected by them because you don't "feel" something - like you do with caffeine. Don't bother with coca candy unless you like to suck on something; it has no effect. 

 

Our company supplied snacks on 3 of the 4 days but also recommended to bring them. I had granola bars and fruit bars but wish I had a loose bag of nuts or trail mix or dried fruit - so I could eat a few pieces at a time. With all the food the company provides, you will not go hungry (or lose weight).

Wear 2 pairs of socks - to prevent blisters, especially on downhills. Don't forget to cut your toenails before the trek; clip fingernails short too or they will break anyway.  Bring a dry shirt to change into after finishing day 1 and 2. You finish high up; it is windy and it gets cold when the sun goes down; don't stay in your wet clothes. You can hang your wet shirt on your daypack to dry when you hike - like the porters do. 

The porters are always running by. Stop on the mountain side to let them pass. Do not get close to the local's donkeys on the 1st day; they can kick very hard!

For our trip the showers on the last day were cold water only - and free. Bring one-use travel shower supplies - stores in Cusco sell them. There was also one shower stall on nights 1 and 2 but all the camps and bathrooms are different. 

Every morning and evening the porters provide a dog bowl size of warm water to freshen up with. A wash bowl and trash bag were also provided at the dining tent.  Bring wipes and a small towel. 

Do not forget a decent head lamp (not flashlight) and spare batteries. This is your only light source in your tent, the bathroom, and early the last morning. 

99% of the toilets are a hole in the ground. Do not forget your toilet paper and hand sanitizer. There are some toilets along the trail and at the camp - or your company will bring a toilet tent. 

Always keep your tent zipped so you don't get any unwanted creatures. 

There were llamas along the way: the morning of day 2, the ruins before Winay Wayna, and around Machu Picchu. 

In advance I was very confused about how much to tip the porters. Our company told us $40 total, and reassured me such in an email. However my guide confided different amounts. We had 10 porters, 1 cook and 1 coordinator. The 9 of us each tipped a total of 100 soles ($40) for these porters. The total breakout was 600 soles for 10 porters (so 60 each - which they divide out), 180 for the cook, and 120 for the coordinator.  We pooled our tips together and gave them at the goodbye/ thank you ceremony on the last night. As for the guides... 1 guide is required for every 8 trekkers. Since we had 9 trekkers we had 2 guides (which was great because one always led the group and one always stayed behind the last person).  We tipped the guides on the last day - after Machu Picchu. (Our guides did not return on the train with us; they took the much cheaper local's train.) We chose to tip the guides equally 25 soles per person each guide. Then we had an additional tip: one of our porters met us at Machu Picchu. Note - porters are not allowed past the Winay Wayna check point into Machu Picchu, so our porter had to walk down to Aguas Calientes and then up to Machu Picchu. He delivered our personal supplies (duffle bags) to Aguas Calientes. (Our rented sleeping bags and provided sleeping mats were taken from us at the last camp.) He brought us breakfast #2 to Machu Picchu, and took our rented poles (no poles allowed in Machu Picchu). Our provided duffle bag was taken from us in Aguas Calientes but we could use it til Cusco, if needed. Lastly, he met us at the bus and took us to the meeting point in Aguas Calientes. For all this we only tipped him 3 soles each. So my total tip was 153 ($61). I wouldn't plan on tipping less than this!

I cannot say whether or not to bring hiking poles. I have never used them, did not use them, and did not miss them. However most others swore by how useful they are!

A guide always carried oxygen and a first aid kit. If you get ill before the top of Dead Woman's Peak, a guide or porter will return back down with you, and you can take the train to Machu Picchu (at your expense). If you get ill after Dead Woman's Peak, you will be brought to the finish. 

 

The last morning you get up at 3:30am (or earlier) because the porters have to run down to their 5am local train. We had breakfast and then walked to the checkpoint that was in the camp (Winay Wayna). At 4:00am we sat and waited for it to open at 5:30am. (This check point stops people from entering Machu Picchu when it is closed.) Technically at least 250 hikers will be in this line. The first ~50 will get to sit on a covered bench; the rest get the ground.

From the check point it is about 1 hour to the Sun Gate where you get your first view of Machu Picchu. The trail is narrow and does not allow for easy passing. Then you hike down 30 minutes to Machu Picchu and the classic view. At that point you walk to the nearby entrance/exit to officially enter with your ticket. The entrance is where there is a normal bathroom (1 sole), food, storage (fee) and hotel - none of these are allowed inside the sanctuary. You will not be the first person into Machu Picchu; it opens at 6am and you cannot reach it from the checkpoint much before 7am. 

On your way out of Machu Picchu, don't forget to stamp your passport (on the right, before the exit).

 

WHAT YOU NEED ON THE INCA TRAIL:

€        Original passport and copies

€        Sleeping bag and poles (not included)

€        Hiking waterproof boots

€        Thick plastic rain poncho

Remember:  Even during the dry season there can be the occasional heavy downpour

€        Warm jacket, hat, gloves and wool socks

€        Extra set of clothes for the night/PJs

€        After trekking shoes are nice

€        Sun hat and sunglasses

€        2 T-shirts / 2 long-sleeve shirts

€        Comfortable hiking <zip off> trousers

€        Socks, underwear

€        Bathing suit (for hot springs)

€        Water bottle

€        Toilet paper and lots of wet wipes

€        Hand sanitizer

€        Towel, very small travel one

€        Personal medication, bandaids

€        Headache, antacid medicines

€        Diarrhea and constipation medicines

€        Toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, hair gel

€        Flashlight/headlamp with spare batteries

€        Money for tipping and for any emergency (local currency) = 300 sols pp

€        Dried fruit, candies and chocolates

€        Pillow (travel size) if deflates

€        Sport Bra

€        Sunscreen

€        Insect Repellent

€        Daypacks

 

Note: Pack in lots of large ziplock bags

 

 

DAY PACK:

€        Camera

€        Sunglasses

€        water bottle

€        sunscreen

€        bug spray

€        pocketknife with scissors/clippers

€        blister stuff (moleskin)

€        baby wipes

€        hand sanitizer

€        sunhat

€        fleece layer

€        extra socks

€        extra t-shirt

€        raincoat / waterproof cover

€        Blistex

€        Headache, antacid medicine

€        Snacks

€        Coca leaves

 

 

SAS Travel Peru Review = 4D3N Trek to Machu Picchu

I had narrowed down whom to book our Trail through to two agencies: SAS
Travel Peru and United Mice. If you are looking to book a trek, I urge you
to consider Adios Adventure Travel (I didn't know about them when I booked).


SAS responded right away where the other (the one I was leaning towards) did
not - which unfortunately turned out to be a problem with their email
service. When you book the Inca Trail, regardless of who you book through,
there are only 500 spots available per day. The quantity available is
updated daily, and they go quickly during the dry (non-rainy) season.

SAS responded to emails within 24 hours but they often did not address every
question, and all the information they provide is contradicting. They sent
two confirmation emails with contradicting information. They guaranteed us
camp Winay Wayna (on the last night) when we booked (my condition to booking
with them) - which we were informed upon arrival we did not get. They
offered to book our Huayna Picchu tickets, and then doubled the price when I
asked them to book it (all in the same string of emails). Lastly, there was
no bus to pick us up when we arrived from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo,
and when we did get a van, it was too small so everyone was squished and our
bags were on our laps. Other than the office organization, the trip was
terrific! The porters, cook and guide are hardworking and attentive. There
was a variety of delicious and plentiful food - and I am somewhat picky. The
equipment was top notch - and I definitely recommend renting as much as
possible (do not bring your own sleeping bag)! Their heavy sleeping bags
are extremely warm for those cold temps, and they include a liner. If you
are not into details or specifics, this is the company for you.

Absolutely hire a porter. And don't fall short with only 6kg - that only
holds your sleeping bag and sleeping pad. And if you weigh your duffle at
your hotel the night before, plan in SAS telling you it is still too heavy
when they weigh it at the trail entrance (their scale is calibrated
differently).

Regardless- with them you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Our Hotels in Panama and Peru

Panama = Country Inn & Suites (on the Causeway, not the one in town). I booked through their website. After I booked, I received discount deals (emails) from them, so not only rebooked for 30% less, but also upgraded to a canal-view suite at a fraction of the cost. I looked into staying in town or in the jungle but decided the Causeway was best suited for us. We enjoyed being along the canal and having the causeway activities so close by. Breakfast is included. This was probably the nicest hotel of our trip.  We received a voucher for a free coffee from their shop, and it was quite good.  When booking a hotel, take into consideration the cost/ease of transportation to get there. Cost to the city is quite reasonable ($15)  but to the jungle is expensive ($100). Causeway would have been close to $45 but we hired a tour guide/driver instead. 

Lima = B&B Lima Casa Guadalupe. I booked through booking.com but you can go direct.  Their price was right - esp. for our short stay (hours).  They had good reviews, are one of the closest to the airport (10 minutes if no traffic), and the owners are very nice and helpful. We paid for their service where they hire a taxi to meet us at the airport (they do not own a car), and then to return us to the airport. One of them came with us both ways, and gave us directions for the airport. The room is plain but it met our needs. The breakfast is included and was basic and good. They also held our Panama bag for us for a week until we returned. They offered to make us a 2am breakfast but we declined; they did get up however to hail us a taxi.  And since I thanked her with Ghiradelli chocolates, she sent me home with cake!

Ollantaytambo = Apu Lodge. I booked directly through them. They responded to my emails very promptly, and set up a guide for me - which I ended up canceling (and went with Juan Jose instead). They were also willing to book our tickets to Huayna Picchu for a very fair price. They have good reviews - equal to another place in town.  I specifically reserved a room with a view of the ruins, which we got. The room actually fit 4 people. The room was not fancy but definitely met our needs. It included a decent breakfast -  the "best" of our trip. I was disappointed to not meet either owner - who I had exchanged emails with, but the workers were very friendly and helpful. Pay attention to their directions for how to use the shower so you don't end up with a cold one!

Cusco:

1) Second Home Cusco

I booked through expedia but you can book direct. The B&B only has 3 rooms. I chose it because of its location - San Blas - and its excellent reviews.  It was not cheap - you can stay in many other reasonable places in Cusco for less. But it was worth every penny. Carlos was exceptional. His replies to emails were instant.  He offered to pick us up at the airport on our arrival even though we did not stay with him that night. (I feel terrible because he actually went to the airport to get us - a miscommunication I believe was due to translation.) He was constantly asking to accommodate all of our needs. He cooked us breakfast to order (eggs).  He would book any tours or services we needed. He booked our dinner reservations and our Huayna Picchu tickets - at face value. He held our bags while we were on the Inca Trail, and then he delivered them to our next hotel in Cusco. The morning we had to leave for our trek, he got up before 5am to make us tea and say goodbye; he even packed us a picnic breakfast to go. The room was a suite and it was very nice. Make sure you have good directions. Because it is small, it is not well-known. The addresses on the street are random - not in numerical order. You cannot take a taxi directly there because the street is pedestrian only.  I hesitate to say anything negative but feel I must disclose one thing - the room is not sound proof. You can hear the other activities like you would in your own home. I didn't mind though - since it made it feel more like home.  Our Second Home :)

2) El Vierrey Boutique

I booked this through booking.com. I chose it because of its location - our room overlooked the main plaza - Plaza de Armas. We would be arriving late at night very tired from the Inca Trail. We booked their nicest room - I wanted a treat after the dirt and ground of the trail, and I wanted to overlook the activity of the plaza.  Service was nice; breakfast was plain. I can't recommend their other (regular) rooms since I didn't see them - but they don't view the plaza. Our room and bathroom were very large with a balcony over the plaza. We slept with the door ajar and listened to the activity of the plaza, and enjoyed watching it early in the morning. As it turns out, there is a Starbucks very close by in the plaza which I enjoyed drinking in the middle of the plaza. 

Inca Trail = SAS Travel Peru

I had narrowed down who to book our Trail through to two agencies. SAS responded right away where the other (the one I was leaning towards) did not - which unfortunately turned out to be a problem with their email service. When you book the Inca Trail, regardless of who you book through, there are only 500 spots available per day. The quantity available is updated daily, and they go quickly during the dry (non-rainy) season. 

SAS responded to emails within 24 hours but they often did not address every question, and all the information they provide is contradicting. They sent two confirmation emails with contradicting information. They guaranteed us camp Winay Wayna (on the last night) when we booked (my condition to booking with them) - which we were informed upon arrival we did not get. They offered to book our Huayna Picchu tickets, and then doubled the price when I asked them to book it (all in the same string of emails).  Lastly, there was no bus to pick us up when we arrived from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and when we did get a van, it was too small so everyone was squished and our bags were on our laps.  Other than the office organization, the trip was terrific!  The porters, cook and guide are hard working and attentive. The food was delicious, and I am somewhat picky. The equipment was top notch - and I definitely recommend renting as much as possible (do not bring your own sleeping bag)!  Their heavy sleeping bags are extremely warm for those cold temps, and they include a liner.  If you are not into details or specifics, this is the company for you. 

Absolutely hire a porter. And don't fall short with only 6kg - that only holds your sleeping bag and sleeping pad. And if you weigh your duffle at your hotel the night before, plan in SAS telling you it is still too heavy when they weigh it at the trail entrance (their scale is calibrated differently).

Regardless- with them you will have the trip of a lifetime!

Adios Adventure Travel Review - Juan Jose

Through my Cusco trip planning and google searches, Vidal kept popping up with good reviews. In the early planning stages, I was making all the arrangements and had no intention of hiring a guide; we always do everything ourselves and I assumed I could not afford Vidal's services. Then 2 weeks before we left, I was under quite a bit of work stress which was causing me to be out of sorts.  At the same time I came across Adios Adventure Travel. Then I realized it was Vidal's company. I figured it was meant to be. I started emails with Jacquie in the US and Vidal in Peru. Both promptly respond to emails and are very helpful. Even though it was more than I wanted to spend, I really felt I was in good hands - and booked 2 1/2 days of guided tours. I was hoping for Vidal to be our guide, but it was the last minute so of course he was already booked. He recommended his good friend Juan Jose. Now I too very highly recommend Juan!!  Of the 4-5 guides we used during our trip, he was an absolute highlight. He was a tremendous resource - he should write a travel guide!  He was extremely accurately knowledgeable about his ancestry - the Inca. He never contradicted himself. Staying with him for 2 1/2 days meant he built upon each story which was much better than hearing bits and pieces and repeats. We felt extremely safe with him. He was very protective of us, and always took charge and acted as our translator. He was extremely respectful of the environment and community, and very friendly - even with a great sense of humor. He is 100% responsible for our enriching experience.  I always have so many unanswered questions when I travel to another country - but thanks to him I had every question answered.  I learned so much about Peru and its people.  His English is excellent.  We had a great time with him!  My biggest regret was not continuing with him into the Inca Trail and into Machu Picchu - but I had no idea back in April that he even existed. 

One thing I felt strongly about was bringing school supplies to give to the kids in the Sacred Valley. When I asked Vidal and Jacquie for help with this, they arranged for us to stop at a school in Ollantaytambo where we could donate the suitcase of supplies we brought. 

Another perk was working with Jacquie in the US. She understands how Americans work and their expectations. She is thorough and prompt. Payment is easy since she is in the US - I was able to use PayPal and dollars. 

If you are looking for a guide or any services, I highly recommend you go through Adios Adventure Travel!

Day 10 - Last Day: Lima

Today began our journey home. We had half the day in Cusco and then flew back to Lima. 

We had a casual morning enjoying the plaza, and wandering around for the last few gifts. 

Then we were touristo stupido. We let our airport taxi driver give us a counterfeit 10 soles.  Greg could tell immediately it felt different and I noticed it was missing the usual picture of Machu Picchu - but we were focused on checking in to our flight. We didn't actually realize it was a counterfeit until we tried to pay the Lima taxi with it!  Greg is more upset with the fact that we fell for the scam than for the amount we lost -$4. We also tipped that asshole (it is uncommon to tip taxis in Peru)!

We never take taxis, anywhere, and today we took 3 more.  Our B&B had already taught us how to get the best rate on a taxi. If you get one in the airport, you have to pay a fixed price. So instead you catch one of the taxis leaving the airport - the ones who just dropped someone off. We paid almost 1/3 this way - not that they didn't try to get the higher fare first!

We tried to make the best out of our Lima layover -  most of it we would be sleeping.  We took a taxi to Kennedy Park in Miraflores.  I had read it is full of live entertainment - but it wasn't today. Half of it was blocked off. The other part had a tiny artisan market, a playground, and scattered snack vendors. It also had at least 20 very tame cats laying around... The dogs here are on leashes. 

We couldn't get our bearings on the tiny map we had. The street names on the map didn't match the actual street names - not sure why?  

We enjoyed a malto Cusquino at a cafe along the park, grabbed some sandwiches to go, and took them to the malecon - an easy walk from Kennedy Park. It was the usual cloud layer in Lima so there was no sunset. We walked through Lover's Park, then called it a day. We'd be leaving for the airport again at 2:15am. 

I have to admit we still haven't nailed down the best way to get currency when we travel, but this trip was particularly bad. One of the ATM limits was 400 soles ($160) which doesn't go far!  And then NO ONE would take big bills and we didn't know how to get change. Even Starbucks wanted exact change. We tried to pay the taxi 50 soles ($20) and he wouldn't take it!

Anyway, it is all behind us now. We had a truly unforgettable trip, and can't wait to get back to our kids and the comforts of home!

Day 9 - Machu Picchu

Wow! Today was pure bliss. Like complete happiness! It is one thing to visit Machu Picchu, and something completely more meaningful to reach it after 4 hard, relentless, enduring, delightful, wonderful days! If you enjoy the outdoors and exercise, I highly recommend this hike!

Our day started at 3:30am with the knock on our tent. It rained most of last night but stopped by this time. It was a rush to beat the other 500 trekkers to the check in point, hardly a 5 minute walk away. We beat about 450 of them, just missed the benches, and sat in the dirt for the next 1 1/2 hours until the check point opened (it is the only way to keep people out of Machu Picchu while it is closed). As miserable as this might sound, it was not one bit! Then the gates opened, and the adrenaline started pumping. Knowing we were an hour away from the highlight of our trip - we would have run there had there not been 50 people ahead of us slowing us down!

Gasping for breath, we reached the rewarding Sun Gate after 50 minutes. It is the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca Trail but it is quite high up and still 30 minutes away from the sanctuary.

At the guard house we stopped to take the classic Machu Picchu picture (more like 20+ pictures). It is a view you will never forget.

Then we actually had to leave - the exit/entrance wasn't far - to have our 2nd breakfast, use a REAL toilet (oh - the joy of sitting down to pee!), and get our entrance ticket stamped so we could officially go inside.

Next our guide gave us a 2-hour tour of the site. Greg and I got a kick out of seeing THE tree in Machu Picchu (the tree in every photo) because we told Kate we would sit under it... We didn't know the entire field is roped off - off limits.

Sunday is free local day, and we noticed some in their traditional dress. I assumed they were the usual dress-up people who are looking for a quick tourist buck, but these were the real thing. They were the the shawmen/women from their town, who had travelled far to come to this sacred place. They made for some nice photos.

At 10am Greg and I had a date with Huayna Picchu mountain - to climb to the top of it. It is the tall mountain you always see in every picture of Machu Picchu; the Inca used it for special sacred ceremonies. Only 400 people are allowed to climb it a day, so you need to reserve your time in advance. The trail is exceptionally steep, and at times the stairs are like climbing a ladder. At the top, we hung our feet over the edge, popped the cork on the bottle of Gatorade I'd been carrying since early the second day, and took in the beauty of the sanctuary of Machu Picchu. I can't believe we are actually here!

Just as we got down off Huayna Picchu mountain, and found our way through the maze of ruins to the bus down to Aguas Calientes, it started to rain. In town we met back up with the rest of our group at the bar "Machu Pisco". There we found out that a couple of our trek mates got engaged at Machu Picchu!

The train ride back on Peru Rail was like riding through a greenhouse. The flora was green, lush and more what I was expecting from a jungle. SAS graciously upgraded our tickets to the fancy vista dome train, including meal service; not the Orient Express but it was quite the luxury after 4 days on the trail!

In Cusco we had to say goodbye to our new friends. When we met on the 1st day, and took our "family" photo at the start of the trail, I disliked the loose use of the word family. These strangers are not my family. I also secretly wished I was with a group of Americans rather than foreigners from Israel, Belgium, and the UK. So quite to my surprise, we very much enjoyed our time with these nice couples, and the fact that they were not Americans only enrichened our experience!

Tonight, in Cusco, as a treat we are staying in a nice room that opens onto the Plaza de Armas. We are exhausted!

Day 8 - The Unforgetable Inca Trail

The third morning started with rain - and happy 60th (!) birthday wishes to one of our porters. Greg isn't sleeping well - in a tent on a thin sleeping mat. He is thinking of stealing my mat from me. I'm getting some of the best sleep I have had in weeks. Greg said, "I know, you were snoring along with the porters!". They sleep all together in the dining tent next to us.

The rain stopped by the time we got started - early even though we didn't have far to go, and were done hiking for the day by lunch. It was something like 2 hours to the summit, and then 2 hours down to camp. We were in fog for more than 1/2 the morning.

The summit was nothing special since we could only see fog. It was quite drab, barren surroundings. I had to use the bano which was the worst yet - so bad everyone took a look and instead went to find a bush. It was a hole in the ground with no water to wash away the feces that missed the hole. So, as it turns out, this was our camping spot for the night!! And quite possibly the worst thing about this place is that it is over 4 hours from Machu Picchu, which means on the next morning, we would have to leave at 2am! But our guide didn't tell me any if this until we left it behind us, and instead went to commandeer space at camp Winay Wayna. If you ever make this trek, make sure you are staying at Winay Wayna on your 3rd night!! It was my only criteria when booking the trek, but obviously SAS messed up somewhere. Apparently while they were waiting to get more than 9 people on our trek, they lost the gamble and the camp filled up. There are several camps along the trek - not just one place for each night. It is the job of the trekking company to book the camps.

Today was labeled "unforgettable". It was! Not in the way I imagined though, but gorgeous all the same. I pictured something more exotic in the jungle. But with the fog and steep 2,000+ steps down (all original Inca trail), there wasn't much to look at; you had to focus very carefully on each step. Even though there was no challenge to the lungs today, you really needed to take it slow because of sore legs and feet but especially so you stop often to enjoy the beauty. I was always looking in every direction. In fact at one of the ruins, something caused me to look far to the side of me, and I spotted a few llama that we all stopped to watch and photo for a bit. The back drop of the photos was Machu Picchu mountain. We can see it now, and even people walking along the top of it, but the actual ruins are still out if view - our reward for tomorrow.

After lunch it was time to shower - another adventure. Free cold water for anyone daring enough! That would be me, and not Greg; he still stinks. The very cold water pours out an open spout like a hose (no shower head). At least it is warm today ~ 75 degrees. And I am clean!

There was supposed to be beer waiting at this camp - they had a bar and a store - but the government shut it down this year. Instead our cook "cooked" us a cake for happy hour; it is amazing what he can create in his camping kitchen!

The view out our tent is of the mountains and valley below. It is absolutely beautiful. The view to our left is Machu Picchu mountain. I could get used to this!